The Arrowine Blog

When it comes to Wine Tasting, let's leave the battle of Expert vs. Consumer behind by Amy Evans

2012-03-13T08:09:00.000-07:00

Amy Evans, wine professional and author of The Native Grape blog, responds to a recent post in the NPR food blog, The Salt: Most of Us Just Can't Taste The Nuances In High-Priced Wine.

"Most of us can't taste the nuances in high priced wines." So heralded NPR's food blog "The Salt" this week in a piece by Allison Aubrey. May I just say...UGH!!! This is one of my least favorite of all the arguments against wine out there. That it's all bunk. An entire industry all over the world since the Greeks invented it in antiquity, are just plain full of it. And more importantly...full of themselves.

And this time, they are coming to the table armed with research. Proof!! Aha!!! Just the title of this article summoned an image burned into my mind of a TV spot several years ago, claiming experts could not tell the difference between Two Buck Chuck and a more expensive wine. People really love to trot out their Two Buck, don't they? The "experts" it turned out, were some first year culinary students in starched white Chef coats and tall Chef's hats, who made a quality declaration the equivalent of "Not Bad..Not bad at all."

The research offered here is legitimate, but unfortunately it is presented somewhat misleadingly in terms of the so-called Super Tasters. These are a group of people who actually have more taste buds...like we all do when we are kids. They taste sweet, salty, bitter and sour more acutely. Consequently, they are more likely to be picky eaters (think toddlers) that don't like strong flavors, spicy dishes or dry, tannic wines. Women frequently have more taste buds than men and are more likely to fall into this group (think girlie drinks.) The wine experts, however, are rarely going to fall into this group.

There is definitely some biology behind why some people don't like or can't drink certain styles of wine...the same way not everyone likes strong, "bitter" coffee or dark chocolate. But making the argument that wine experts are biologically predisposed supertasters is inaccurate, and totally flips the actual evidence on it's head. Worse, it adds fuel to arguments like these posted on NPR's discussion board on the article.

supa fluous (supafluous) wrote:

I usually buy at the $15 level... for a 5L box. Sour, but just fine for me. Not to be an inverted snob, but it feels good to be scientifically validated. Cheers!

Raoul Ornelas (rlupodimare) wrote:

"I purchase Trader Joe's two buck chuck....for $2.95! Their Sauvignon blanc,Chablis Blanc or their Christmas Boujole winea are outstanding. You show me a Sommeliers (which really is a flimflam person with a French accent) a waiter, or waitress selling a glass of wine for $10.00 or more or a bottle of wine for more than $10.00 to $1,000.00 and I'll show you a deal between a genius and a sucker! Besides, after three or four glasses of any wine no ones know whether he or she is drinking wine or beer...... as the crawl on their hands and knees on the floor toward the exit; by this time, these floor crawling wine experts don't know if the wine has a hint of leather or perhaps tastes like chicken."

Now after I pick myself up off the floor, mumbling and mulling over the leather/chicken question, I would point out that the festering animosity of Raoul's response speaks directly to the main problem with these arguments...the us vs. them. Wine professionals (as opposed to wine enthusiasts/collectors who are in it solely for their own enjoyment) are there to help people to choose wines they will enjoy from amongst the many options. I know many talented Sommeliers who have studied for years to perfect the art of wine Service, and I am pretty sure they are not "flimflam" people and most of them do not have French accents. But if as a consumer you are coming to the table with these prejudices and insecurities, it will take a very talented individual indeed to surmount these obstacles and help you to have the best experience possible...be it choosing a wine at a restaurant or selecting an inexpensive bottle for everyday drinking at a wine retailer.

And to supa flous I would say that yes you can distinguish tastes in wine. You just called your own choice sour. If you don't really like it, than why are you drinking it by the 5L? Most people are already tasting so much more than they realize, and a great deal can be gleaned by just paying a little bit of attention. After all, we have all been tasting our whole lives. We know the difference in tastes between the ripe tropical fruit flavors of pineapples and the tart flavors of green apples without being told by anyone. Now I'm going to blow your mind supa flous...you might be a super taster. Most bulk produced and bulk packaged wines are slightly sweet and low in tannins and bitter flavors. As mild a wine as they can muster and still give it some alcoholic kick. You probably like it mostly because it doesn't taste like very much at all.

The other evidence, a study "by researchers at Penn State and Brock University in Canada finds that when it comes to appreciating the subtleties of wine, experts can taste things many of us can't." "What we found is that the fundamental taste ability of an expert is different," says John Hayes of Penn State. "'We evaluated hundreds of wine drinkers," says Hayes, having them sample/taste a chemical that measures their reaction to bitter tastes.' He found that wine experts — people such as wine writers, winemakers and wine retailers — were about 40 percent more sensitive to the bitterness than casual consumers of wine."

An ability to detect, as opposed to a sensitivity to or dislike of, bitterness does not point to biology. Bitter is one of only four things, along with sweet, sour and salty, that we all actually taste. It is the business of the wine professional to hone their palate and develop the ability to distinguish flavors (the sensory combo of taste and smell.) They have been trained to detect bitterness. I am not sure a study that determines a professional has 40% more ability in his field than someone not in that profession proves very much. In a side note, I really, really hope that the folks at NASA are more than 40% more proficient in their field than I am.

Lastly, I do think that an inexperienced taster should not go around willy nilly dropping money on expensive or highly rated bottles of wine. You are almost guaranteed to be disappointed. On the highly rated front it should be noted that a high rating does not automatically coincide with a higher price point as the article states. There are many inexpensive wines with good press. Our own Dave Mcintyre in The Washington Post has a monthly "Recession Busters" column of affordable favorites and every major wine magazine regularly posts their own version of the Best Buy and Best Value. The "average" person who is not getting these nuances is also ignoring the larger service wine writers who rate wines also provide which is a tasting note. If anyone ever bothered to read the note that accompanies the score they might find valuable information about what the wine tastes like and when it is ready to drink and so make a more informed decision about whether or not a particular wine will be to their taste.

Again, it's not us vs. them. I have seen the "wine speak eye roll" many people make when they read these notes and I will say that these publications were originally intended to serve the wine trade and not the general wine consuming public, so there is a jargon. But I guarantee you that there is a wine professional nearby happy to translate this for you over a quick discussion about what you like or maybe what you are having for dinner.

In closing, I implore people to stop viewing knowledge/interest as snobbery. For those that choose to invest the time-there is a lot to love (and not to love) about wine at all price points. If it's not your thing, that's cool...but why keep trying to pretend there's nothing to it just because you don't get it? I know I only hear 1/100th of what a record producer hears...but sometimes, I still like to listen. Let's leave the battle of Expert vs. Consumer behind.

About Amy Evans:
Centreville, Virginia, United States
I have been in the wine business since 2000-when I fell in love with Italian wines as a buyer in Austin, Tx. I currently rep the wines of Dionysos Imports in Northern Virginia, DC and MD-a wholesaler and importer specializing in the wines of Greece, Portugal and France. I hold the Advanced Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET)

Sweet and Sour by Nick Anderson

2012-03-13T07:19:00.000-07:00

Our “Beer 101” series is finally upon one of my favorite styles; one that sees much casual indifference among many craft beer fans who’ve never taken the time to experience the joys of its better examples, and often shied away from by relatively new drinkers unprepared for some of the key aspects to its glory. I’m talking about Lambic beers today of all types, from the ripest fruit-infused Kriek to the sharpest, most sour Gueuze. Bear in mind that I do want to go further into the subjects of both sweet and sour beers at some point, but for this week let’s just focus on Lambic, okay?

Lambic is among the oldest styles of beer produced today. Hailing from the area of Belgium southwest of Brussels (with the Cantillon brewery operating in Brussels itself), Lambic production can be traced back to the 15-16th Century, depending on who’s research you put the greatest stock into. Not much has changed from those days as far as the beers themselves go: Lambic are generally brewed with a grain schedule of around 70% malted barley to 30% unmalted wheat. Yeasts are imparted through spontaneous fermentation, with the natural yeasts and bacteria finding their way into the tanks to get the process started.

Spontaneous fermentation is a key factor in Lambic’s tart, cider/citrus notes and sour feel. After fermentation has begun its work, Lambic are moved into sherry, port, or occasionally wine barrels to develop and age for 1-3 years. You may find it surprising to discover just how much hop is used to make a Lambic, seeing as they aren’t particularly piney or bitter in any traditional sense of how we think of beer. The trick is that Lambic brewers use dried hops for the sake of preserving the Ale during the aging process, and they don’t have the powerful resins that young hops do. In fact, dried hops (if you ever get a chance to grab a handful, do so) have a sort of cheese-like aroma to them, which they impart to the final beer itself.

It’s what happens to these Ales after their time in the barrel begins that determines what form of Lambic they’ll eventually end up being. Here are some of the most common Lambic styles, how they come to be, and some worthwhile examples for you to seek out. These beers may not always be easy to find, so don’t hesitate to ask your local merchant for some assistance; we’re always happy to help.

Lambic: Seems an obvious place to start, no? Not so fast: Lambic itself is aged three years before bottling, and is still kind of a rare treat to find. The best examples are Cantillon’s Iris, 1900 Grand Cru, or their standard Lambic but best of luck finding them in our area. Oud Beersel’s Lambic is occasionally found in the wild, and is a great beer. The hallmark of classic Lambic is its lack of carbonation and its sharp, sour feel.

Gueuze: One of my absolute favorite styles of beer, though it took me some time to get there. Those expecting the sweetness of a Kriek or Framboise tend to find the shock of Gueuze and its bitter, sour palate too much and swear off it immediately rather than delve deeper into what makes these beers great. Gueuze is made from a blend of 1-3 year old Lambic, given a secondary fermentation and then bottled for anywhere from a year to two years to develop. Everything Lambic is, Gueuze is more; more sour, more citrus, more vinous, and yet richer in feel as well. Try the recently opened Tilquin Oude Gueuze to see what the style is like at its highest level. Lindeman’s Cuvee Rene is a classic as is the outstanding Girardin 1882 (known colloquially as Black Label). Drie Fonteinen makes some beautiful Gueuze as well.

Kriek, Framboise, Pomme, Peche, etc: We had to get around to it at some point—the fruity stuff. It’s true that there are some fruit-flavored Lambic that are overly sweetened and simply unpalatable, but I’m here to tell you that it gets better. You just have to be careful about what you try: I recommend trying the Kriek from Oud Beersel, Cantillon (and if you find it give me a call—I miss that beer dearly), and the wonderful Liefman’s Cuvee Brut, which is made with a base Oud Bruin (sour Brown Ale) rather than Lambic. Lindeman’s is the brand you’re most likely to find on your local shelf, and there’s a lot of debate as to the merits of their fruit beers. Frankly, I don’t see what the fuss is about; they make outstanding Gueuze, and their Cassis is one of my favorite ‘once-in-a-while’ treats. Their Kriek (cherry), Framboise (raspberry), Pomme (apple), and Peche (peach) Lambic are fun beers that are a great alternative to ciders or cocktails and they even come in half-bottles if you’re worried about having too much on hand. I say that’s a win/win.

If you don’t know a lot about Lambic, but you think you do, give some of these a try before writing off the style completely. Especially as we get into the warmer months there really isn’t anything quite like the right Gueuze, at the right temperature on the right evening, to make it seem as if everything really is ok with the world and maybe — just maybe – that moment can last forever. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson keeps a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.

Abbey and Trappist Ales by Nick Anderson

2012-03-13T07:16:00.000-07:00

Of all the topics we’ve covered in our tour through Belgian beer, and all of the categories yet to come, Abbey and Trappist Ales are going to get the shortest shrift. It’s unfortunate but inevitable; there is simply too much history and nuance within these beers and their breweries to produce one fully comprehensive, properly detailed article without writing a missive that would frankly be too long to hold the beginning beer enthusiasts’ attention. So this week let’s get a relatively brief rundown on what you really need to know about some of the best beers in the world.

Most of our focus is going to relate to Trappist Ales today, but first let’s look at what “Abbey” Ale really means. While there are Abbey Ales that are brewed in monasteries, the Abbey designation can be applied to beers made at a monastery by a secular brewer, by a commercial brewery using a monastery’s name (with requisite compensation, of course), or even commercially made beers with a completely made-up “Abbey” name or simply made in the style of an Abbey Ale. This isn’t to say there’s necessarily anything wrong with or inferior about these beers; it is simply the truth of the situation. The best of these arrangements can produce fantastic beers that bring a glorious tradition to the world: the beers of St. Bernardus for example are among the more popular and acclaimed Abbey Ales out there, but only their Watou Triple is made within the old Abbey walls. The other St. Bernardus beers are made at their adjoining commercial brewery. Popular Abbey Ales include Leffe, St. Feuilien, Brasserie des Rocs, Maredsous and many, many more.

There are key styles to Abbey and Trappist Ales, and they establish templates that most Belgian-style beers follow today. Contrary to popular belief, the names Dubbel, Triple, and Quadrupiel don’t refer specifically to number of fermentations or amount of malts (though they can). Originally, the main Abbey styles were Enkel (“Single”), Dubbel (“Double”), and Tripel (“Triple”). Enkels were lighter in style and alcohol content (generally around 3% ABV), and made for everyday consumption—what we’d call a Session Ale today. The Dubbel and Triple labels were general warnings; a ‘heads-up’ for imbibers that what they were getting was stronger than normal. Today Enkels are rarely seen, while Quadrupiels have thrived in the current environment of beer drinkers looking for bigger and more complex Ales. Dubbels tend to be Brown Ales averaging somewhere in the 6% ABV range, rich with grain flavors, slightly sweet, and with a pleasant hoppy backbone. Tripels tend to be stronger Golden Ales, in the area of 8% ABV (though many are higher or lower) and bright with spicy yeast notes, clean wheat tones, assertive but not overwhelming hops, and with some hint of their alcohol present. Quadrupiels are pretty high octane, usually running somewhere between 10-12% ABV (though again, some can be stronger). Generally darker brown or even almost black in color, Quads are sippers with huge malt character, intense spice, and warming alcohol. Most Abbey Ales are well-suited for cellaring, but Quads definitely stand out and many enthusiasts keep a rotating stock of their favorites ready to open as they see fit.

The Trappist Order is an offshoot of the Cistercian Order and was established at their monastery in La Trappe, France. The Trappists spread across Europe, brewing beer as a service to the community as water was still not exactly safe at the time. Beer was also not only sold to fund the Trappists’ good works but let’s face it—it wasn’t a bad recruiting tool for the church, either. Decimated by the French Revolution, Napoleon’s march and the World Wars, Trappist monasteries spent most of the 20th century rebuilding and reestablishing their beers in what was very slowly, then very quickly becoming a competitive worldwide market. In fact, many brewers were using the Trappists’ names or simply making up their own ‘Trappist’ monastery to sell beer under. The 60s saw monasteries suing pretenders, and in 1997 eight Trappist abbeys formed the International Trappist Association (seven members remain) to establish, in a similar manner to DOC laws pertaining to wine, a set of rules and requirements for any Ale carrying the Trappist label. Among these rules established by the ITA were that Trappist Ales must be brewed within the walls of a Trappist monastery, under the control or direction of the monks. Money acquired through the sales of Trappist beers must be put back into the maintenance of the monastery or toward good works.

Six of the seven Trappist monastery breweries are in Belgium. The seventh, Koningshoven, is located in the Netherlands and bottles their beers under both an eponymous label and under the La Trappe label. The most famous Trappist brewery is Chimay. Chimay’s Ales are available in nearly every part of the world (no kidding; I snagged some Chimay Blue Label in Uruguay when I was down there a year ago) and for most are their introduction to Trappist beer. Chimay has managed to strike a fine balance between the commercial and traditional aspects of Trappist brewing, but whatever questions purists may have about their status it’s undeniable that their White (Cinq Cents; a Tripel), Red (Premiere; a reddish Dubbel), and Blue (Grande Reserve; a big Quad) labels are still among the best of what Belgium has to offer.

Those exploring past Chimay enter the realm of some of the flat-out coolest beers on the planet. Orval is famous for only producing one beer, but it’s a corker: a hoppy, unpredictable, brettanomyces-laced Tripel with the kind of elegant sparkle rarely found in beer. Orval almost feels like Champagne, and the cult of aged Orval holds many a tale of basement cellars and 20 or 30-year-old bottles being cracked open and enjoyed with great reverence. Westmalle produces an outstanding Dubbel, but it’s their Tripel that most seek out, as it’s widely considered the standard of its breed. Achel is the Trappist that is the most rarely seen (legally, anyway—more on that in a moment). Their Blond is a rare treat; bold yet approachable, it’s not one to be passed up. Rochefort is a personal favorite of mine among the Trappists. Rochefort uses a system of numbers rather than the usual names for their beers: 6 is their lush Dubbel, 8 is their Tripel rife with sharp hops and spice, and then there’s 10. Rochefort 10 is simply one of the finest beers you can buy; a huge Quadrupiel checking in at 11.3% ABV, 10 is a masterclass in Belgian brewing. Dark brown in color, Rochefort 10 is fit to be the only beer you have in an evening with its bracing alcohol and medicinal herbal notes being balanced by strong maltiness. There are those who age their Rochefort 10, but I’m of a mind personally that the more expressive the spice and yeast in it, the better.

You’ll notice I’ve mention six Trappist breweries. The seventh, Westveletern, has long been a holy grail of American beer fans. Westveletern has retained their status as the purest of the Trappist monasteries by sticking closest to the traditions of the Order: they brew and sell only enough beer to keep the monastery running and its philanthropic works funded and they’re the only Trappist brewery where the monks do all of the brewing. For years there’s been a gray market of folks lining up outside the Abbey of St. Sixtus to purchase Westveletern and then exporting it illegally. Bottles sell online for absurd prices and many beer fans are only too willing to pay—Westveletern 12 is, by most accounts, one of if not the best beer made on Earth. I can’t say; I’ve never had the opportunity to try ‘Westy’ 12 and have gone out of my way to avoid it as I have moral qualms about coming by it through illicit means. That will change for some lucky Americans soon, however: fewer than 8,000 packs containing 6 bottles of Westy 12 and a set of glasses are to be imported and sold here in the ‘States this April. Whether we’ll see any in Arlington is anyone’s guess.

The Trappist Ales aren’t necessarily for the novice beer drinker, but they’re among the most rewarding to discover and experience. If you enjoy Belgian beer at all, do yourself a favor and seek out some of the Trappists’ work. You’ll be glad you did.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson keeps a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.

'Tis The Saison by Nick Anderson

2012-02-24T11:06:00.000-08:00

It’s hard to imagine here in 2012 American, but the Belgian style of beer known as Saison was near-death not 15-20 years ago. Like many other beer styles, the rise of the American craft beer scene created an interest in Saison that brought this clean, refreshing Ale back from the brink and then some. In fact, it seems difficult these days to find a brewery that isn’t making a Saison of one form or another. Let’s take a look at a style of Belgian beer that has charmed the world.

Saison’s roots can be found in the French-speaking Belgian region of Wallonia. Farmers would brew these Ales in the autumn or winter for farm workers to drink during their long harvest-time shifts (this is why you’ll often see Saison alternately referred to as Farmhouse Ale). You see potable water wasn’t exactly an option in those days, and said farmworkers were entitled to as much as five liters per day (for hydration purposes, or for the hell of it) while harvest was happening. Because of this the original Saisons were around 3% ABV so as to be more refreshing than anything else, and while the strength of Saison has gone up over the years (most examples today check in between 6-8%) a bright, refreshing feel with a crisp hop character (hops act as a preservative, don’t forget) remain the hallmark of the style.

With Saison we’re blessed with many great examples brewed here in the U.S. as well as its native Belgium, but there is a standard of the breed. Saison Dupont has been brewed in the same farmhouse since 1844 and is one of a precious few beers that perfectly represent what their style should be. Dupont has fresh wheat notes with a subtle hoppy backbone and a slightly floral finish. Above all else, Saison Dupont is a joy to drink; it’s a beer that is welcome and fantastic to have anytime of the year and one of only a handful of beers I know of that just about everyone who is into beer can always agree on.

Dupont also make a holiday season version called Avec Les Bons Voeux that is stronger at 9% and well worth seeking out. For Belgians, I also recommend Urthel Saisonniere. Here in America, there is a seemingly endless list of great Saison-style beers available. Brooklyn Sorachi Ace is a favorite, featuring the Japanese Sorachi Ace hop and a more floral character with slightly more assertive hops than usual. Heavy Seas Red Sky At Night from Baltimore is available during the summer months, as it tradition, and usually sells out fast so if you find it, jump on it.

Stillwater Ales has made an art of Saison-inspired beers; their American Farmhouse Ale is a delight and Debutante, with its rye malt and use of heather and honeysuckle, is a revelation. Ommegang Hennepin is a legend and can be found all year. The Bruery Saison Rue is brewed every season and mixes rye malt and brettanomyces to make things more interesting. Smuttynose Farmhouse Ale is a more-than-solid straightforward take on the style. Among the more intriguing, though, is Saison du Buff made in an epic collaboration between Dogfish Head, Stone, and Victory brewing companies. Each brewery makes their own version of the beer, and each has their own qualities. It’s a fascinating experiment if you can gather all three for a tasting session. Expect to start seeing the new releases of Saison du Buff in the next couple of months.

Until next time. Cheers!

Gold Rush by Nick Anderson

2012-02-17T10:29:00.000-08:00

Continuing our look at the many beers of Belgium, this week’s column features one of the most common and varied styles of Belgian beer—the Golden or Blonde Ale. For the sake of this column we’re going to put Golden and Blonde Ales under the same umbrella. Outside of color, the common thread through many Golden Ales is the use of Pilsner malt and bottle conditioning, either through the beer being unfiltered (and left to condition in the bottle) or by adding yeast to a filtered beer causing an extra fermentation. Golden Ales tend to strike a fine balance between their bright, slightly citrusy notes and their alcohol level (which can range anywhere from 6-9% ABV and up).

Duvel is probably the best-known Belgian Golden Ale in the U.S. today. With a spicy yeast character, full-bodied malts and robust hops Duvel has not only become a favorite of Belgian beer drinkers, it’s established the style in parts of the country previously unaware of Belgian beer. Duvel can be found on tap at many bars and restaurants as well as your local grocer or wine shop.

For beer fans in the Northern Virginia area, Delirium Tremens is a legendary Golden Ale. Brought into the country by local company Wetten Imports, Delirium has become a go-to beer for those seeking a raucous good time all over the States. At 10% ABV with rich hops and an intense yeasty palate, the pink elephant on Delirium’s label is an icon of Belgian Ale. For many (myself included), Delirium Tremens is a great introduction not only to the power of Belgian beer, but just how much fun Belgian beers are too.

Those seeking a more everyday beer can find the classic Leffe Blonde in many locations these days. As a relatively inexpensive (though still not cheap) six-pack, Leffe provides a more laid-back experience for drinkers not looking for the more high-octane Golden Ales. Grimbergen Blonde is a slightly fuller-bodied beer that falls under the same category (when available though, it does tend to be a bit pricier) with a slightly spicier flavor than Leffe.

If you’re looking for something a little more modern or experimental, consider Antigoon. Originally developed with the crew at D.C.’s Brasserie Beck and served at Chef Robert Wiedmaier’s restaurants, Antigoon now can be found at retailers around the area. Antigoon has a pinpoint focus that lets its spiciness come through yet stay refreshing. A personal favorite of mine is Urthel Hop-It, a Golden Ale that has a level of hops added to it that is usually reserved for IPAs. Hop-It has a nice backbone of bitterness and is more refreshing than the average big Belgian.

Of course, our own breweries here in the U.S. have gotten into the act with their own takes on Golden and Blonde Ale. Pranqster by California’s North Coast Brewing Company is a fine Belgian-style Golden Ale that can be found for a reasonable price. Victory Golden Monkey is a great rich, intense Golden Ale that is especially nice because, being brewed in Pennsylvania can usually be found relatively fresh. Avery Karma is a nice seasonal Blonde brewed from April through August every year; bright and refreshing; Karma manages to combine big flavor and drinkability.

Whichever Golden or Blonde Ale you choose to try, keep in mind these are beers meant for fun. These are beers with which you can alternate between introspective appreciation and pure enjoyment. The seemingly endless variations of Golden Ales can provide a lifetime of experimentation; try every one that interests you and you’ll find your favorites in no time.

Cheers!

Planet Belgium by Nick Anderson

2012-02-08T08:16:00.000-08:00

It has been fun these past few weeks going over some of the basic styles and examples of those styles. I feel like it’s time to start exploring other parts of the world and maybe get a bit more specific when it comes to styles, beers, history, etc. The next few weeks of this column are going to be dedicated to exploring Belgian beers. There are many misconceptions and assumptions made by those unfamiliar with the beers of Belgium, and while I certainly won’t be able to clear ever one of them up I hope to at least clear a path for you to find an interest in what is historically the most interesting of the ‘big’ beer-producing nations.

Now don’t get me wrong: I swear by my belief that the United States has the most interesting and dramatically varied beer producing culture in the world. That said, it seems that most beer geeks I’ve met and known over the years (myself certainly included) have followed a path from intense hoppy American Pale Ales and IPAs to Belgian beers. It’s not an easy transition for everyone; it took me years to wrap my head and palate around the flavor profiles and archetypes traditional in Belgian beers that are truly foreign to us here in the States. I’ve said it many times to many people over the years: while traditional beers from the U.S., U.K., Germany and the like are different, they’re relatable under the umbrella of what we know here as “Ales” and “Lagers.” Belgium is akin to a completely different planet. On Planet Belgium we consider different styles to be their own countries, so rich and varied are their traditions.

Because of the very different and sometimes downright strange flavor profiles in Belgian beer, it’s easy for someone new to it to be put-off for a lack of preparedness. We’ll get into the details later on, but for now here are of basic rules to help you start your journey:

Free your mind and your palate will follow: If all you know of Belgian beer is Stella Artois and you’re looking to expand your knowledge, make this your mantra. Repeat it to yourself often. Never forget it. You will have to adjust to new ideas and accept a whole new paradigm of what beer is and what flavors make sense. The use of spices, sugars, fruit, and wild yeasts are par for the course depending on which beer is in your glass at any given time, creating brews that are unlike anything you’ve ever had. Keep a clear head about yourself and judge each beverage on its own merits, not by how “weird” it might be compared to what you may be used to. I cannot stress this enough.

Look before you leap: Never pass up advice or recommendations from people who know, and are able to relate to your experience. This is the one time I might advise not just picking something off a menu “just because” or grabbing a bottle off the shelf because it looks interesting. It is simply far too easy to stumble into something that you may not be “ready” for yet. I know how that sounds but hear me out: that 11.2% ABV bottle of Quadruple may be your favorite beer ever someday — but if you have it tonight it may be so drastically divergent from anything you’ve had before that it may sour you to strong Belgian beers in general. An extra few minutes to question a bartender, server, or beer guy can help open a whole new world to you.

Next week, we’ll start picking apart the major Belgian styles and recommending specific beers to try. Until then, happy drinking.

Cheers!

Gluten-Free Beer from Dogfish Head by Nick Anderson

2012-01-27T09:57:00.000-08:00

I try in these columns to stay away from directly relating the topic to a particular beer that may be arriving in the shop or that I might be featuring that week. I probably should, to be honest, but I enjoy going through one style at a time and trying to give you, the reader, a nice introduction and some good examples of each. There is something coming in this week, though, that made me think of a style that is largely unknown to the public at large but is starting to gain importance: gluten-free beer.

The number of Americans being diagnosed with Celiac disease is increasing every year, as doctors begin to understand it and its many varied symptoms. Where only 10-15 years ago the conventional wisdom had Celiac being something that only affected around 1/2,500 people (and focusing on children and young people), today some three million Americans have been diagnosed as Celiac. Celiac disease affects the lining of the intestines, specifically in reaction to foods containing gluten. Gluten is found in wheat, barley, rye, and oats among other grains. The damage done by Celiac leaves the sufferer unable to process important elements in food, leading to various and sundry maladies, none of which are good. Looking at that list of ingredients containing gluten, you can see where issues come up for beer drinkers.

Over the past few years many beers have hit the market for those with Celiac disease who missed beer and were looking for a gluten-free option. I’ve seen the number of customers looking for gluten-free beers increase every year, and every year I’ve seen the disappointment of those customers in the beers on the market for them. These days, the gluten-free beers I keep in stock are limited to Britain’s St. Peter’s Sorghum Beer and Green’s Gluten-Free, whose Belgian-style beers have gained in popularity over the past few years.

The problem is that as well-made as many gluten-free beers are, they simply are not a realistic substitute for traditional beer. Often they lack balance and can come across as cloying or without character. Enter Delaware’s Dogfish Head Brewery. The popular craft brewery had for years been getting requests for a gluten-free beer at their brewery, brewpub, and at their local restaurants. Last year, they developed a recipe and put it on tap at their Rehoboth Beach brewpub; it was a smash hit. It was such a hit that they decided to put it into their production as their first new 4-pack in almost five years. That beer is called Tweason’ale, and why it works is that it is specifically not trying to ape any traditional beer.

Tweason’ale features local strawberries with a base of dark sorghum syrup and buckwheat honey. The resulting beer is bright with a lot of strawberry character along with notes of molasses and even some grains from the buckwheat honey. Dogfish is known for their interesting beers, and they’ve succeeded in making a gluten-free beer that is interesting not only to those with medical dietary restrictions. Tweason’ale is just an interesting beverage, plain and simple. The first batch of Tweason’ale is arriving this week: supplies are limited but don’t worry if you miss it — Dogfish plans on brewing it between seasons (hence the name).

Until next week. Cheers!

Amber Waves by Nick Anderson

2012-01-20T09:45:00.000-08:00

While there are classic Old World versions to be found, today Amber Ales are most associated with America and the American craft beer movement. Amber as a style denotes varying amount of caramelized malt (usually crystal malt) used to add sweetness and fruit to a beer (typically though not always an Ale), along with color ranging from pale copper to deep, fiery red. Today we’re going to take a quick look at some of the variations on the Amber/Red Ale theme as well as take a little bit of the air out of the importance of style designations.

For the most part, there isn’t a great deal of difference between what we know today as Pale Ale and Amber Ale. Ambers really took off in the late 1970’s-early 1980’s when young, growing brewpubs and breweries were looking to quite literally offer a full spectrum of beers to an America that didn’t really know much of anything about beer outside of the big brands. Many brewers felt having a Pale, Amber, and Dark beer option was important to give customers more choices, and the extra balance more malts could give to aggressive new American beers was a plus in an era where bitterness in beer was derided (most infamously in a series of commercials that ran in the ‘States for years hawking bland Macro-Lager). In fact, many Amber Ales got their classification in an effort to avoid being labeled as IPAs or strong Pales, lest any potential drinkers be scared off.

It was quickly discovered however just how versatile and varied Amber Ales could be. Their malty sweetness gave greater balance to more intensely hopped beers and played well off of different types of food. An Amber Ale became a staple of almost every revered craft brewery in the U.S., almost a shibboleth acknowledging to beer enthusiasts everywhere that yes, they “got it.” Eventually, adventurous brewers started to push the boundaries of the style, resulting in everything from intensely hoppy Imperial Amber Ales to dark, rich Red Ales. Here are some to look for if you’re new to Amber Ales:

New Belgium Fat Tire: One of the most popular craft beers in the country is this mild, well-balanced Amber Ale from Colorado. Production is high enough that Fat Tire can be found almost everywhere these days, and it’s a great beer to give to folks who don’t think they like craft beer.

Bell’s Amber: The Michigan brewery’s long-time flagship is finesse in a bottle. Fruity yeast, sweet malts and bold hops are perfectly balanced; this beer is a testament to the sheer ability and talent of the folks at Bell’s.

Troeg’s Hopback and Nugget Nectar: Both of these Ambers from Pennsylvania’s Trogner brothers are popular examples of where Amber Ales are today. The Hopback is a year-round Ale with a deeper red hue and firm hoppy bite. Nugget Nectar is released once per year (2012’s should be hitting shelves in late January or early February) and dials the malt down a bit while going through the roof with the hops. A juicy treat, Nugget Nectar never lasts all that long.

Lagunitas Imperial Red: This seasonal offering from Petaluma, California is being re-introduced in early 2012. The Lagunitas has an interesting combination of rich, intense malts and aggressive, earthy hops. The two seem not to balance so much as they agree to disagree, and the result is an Ale that is both sweet and sharp; bitter but oddly approachable. Not to be missed.

Founder’s Red’s Rye IPA: Something a little different for the hopheads. Red’s Rye is an IPA that sees a mix of sweet Belgian caramel malts and rustic, grainy rye with bright Amarillo hops. The hops and the rye work together to temper the sweetness of the caramel malt, creating one of the great and unique year-round American craft beers.

There are many other takes on Amber of course, from Belgian style Ales (Ommegang’s Rare Vos, Victory V-12 or Gouden Carolus Ambrio, for example) to Lagers (rare, but occasionally available) to so-called Copper Ales (Lagunitas’ Censored Ale or Cornerstone Copper Ale from D.C.’s own Chocolate City Brewery). If you’re unsure, simply assume they will have some marked amount of extra sweetness from the malts, and if you can ask your bartender or store assistant if they have any experience with them. I’ve found that Ambers shine with standard American fare: next time you get something off the grill or work up a nice stew or put out snacks for the game, try out one of these or the seemingly endless number of Amber Ales out there.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson keeps a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.

The Dark Arts by Nick Anderson

2012-01-18T07:53:00.000-08:00

Continuing our “Beer 101” series discussing what you really need to know as you begin your journey into the world of craft beer, let’s take a look at dark beers. Today we’ll be covering the basics: Brown Ale, Porter, and Stout. While tackling malty beers might seem simple, the generality with which their style names have been used both in the past and the present can lead to much confusion. As we have over the past couple of weeks, let’s break these down into simple rules to remember:

1. Malty is as malty does. What ‘Brown Ale’ meant in the late 17th century is much different from what it means today, and beyond that back then there was a great amount of variety in the category (as there is now). At the heart of the style, Brown Ales essentially are beers where the emphasis is on the predominance of malts for flavor and character, with bittering hops relegated to the background. Many breweries today do use quite a bit of hop in their Brown Ale, though, as they find it can bring a freshness to the mouthfeel and keep a malty Ale from feeling too rich or cloying. It may seem anathema to those looking to avoid strongly hopped beers, but a hoppier Brown Ale can be just the thing for the drinker looking for a more balanced dark beer.

2. All Stouts are Porters, but not all Porters are Stout. I get asked about this all the time — what’s the difference between a Porter and Stout? Well, historically speaking, Stout is a stronger style of Porter. Porters are stronger malty Ales that became popular with street and river porters in the 18th century (hence the name). As Porter rose in popularity, stronger versions started to appear, often referred to as “Stout Porters” or eventually simply Stouts. Today, Porter tends to have more roasty caramel notes and less alcohol by volume than Stout, where Stout generally is richer and more redolent with chocolate and coffee notes.

3. All beers are for all seasons. This is definitely the time of year where most tend to think about dark beers, but it certainly isn’t the only time to consider them. We don’t stop drinking Pale Ales because it gets cold out; there’s no reason to give up dark beers because it gets warm. I personally rarely consider weather when I’m buying beer for myself, and when I do it’s long after I’ve considered my mood, if I’m having guests or not, and what I’m serving food-wise.

4. We all have preferences, but there is a beer of every style for every one of us. This is a pretty general rule, but I think it’s time to put it out there. There is so much variety among all styles of beer, but especially within the darker ones, that there is no reason to ever make a blanket statement such as “I don’t like dark beer”. From the most intense Imperial, Chocolate, Coffee, or Oatmeal Stouts to the roasty Robust, Staark, or Smoked Porters and the lightest or darkest Brown Ales there really is something for everyone out there. Never lose your curiosity; you can easily miss out on a new regular or favorite that way.

Some dark beers to consider trying if you’re new to them:

Bell’s Best Brown Ale: The modern example of Brown Ale. Best Brown is made for the fall and winter months, but holds up well in the spring or late summer as it’s relatively light on the malts and balanced by a surprising amount of hops.

Mikkeller Jackie Brown: Taking the idea of Best Brown and kicking it up a notch, Jackie Brown is a bit roastier with its malts and a bit hoppier than the Bell’s. It’s pretty limited in production and not exactly inexpensive, but it’s a personal favorite of mine and fantastic example of a world-class beer that isn’t over-the-top in any way.

Dogfish Head Indian Brown Ale, Palo Santo Marron: Known much more for their IPAs, Dogfish Head produces some of the best dark Ales out there. Indian Brown Ale is the most overlooked beer in their entire lineup, and one of the most criminally underrated beers in America, period. Among the hoppier Brown Ales I’ve mentioned today, Indian Brown is the richest and most generous with its malts. Palo Santo Marron is a more recent addition; a strong (12% ABV) Brown Ale aged in South American Palo Santo wood before bottling. Palo has a unique spicy character from the wood to go along with the intense roasted malts; the high ABV serves as a counter to the richness and makes it all work.

Samuel Smith’s Taddy Porter: The standard of the breed, this classic English Porter holds up today. Easy-drinking with slightly smoky malt notes, Taddy should be the first Porter you ever try if you’re just getting started.

Port City Porter: We’re lucky to have Port City down the road in Alexandria, in no small part because of this excellent Porter that for me is a great example of modern everyday style. At under 6% ABV and with notes of toffee, toast, and cocoa, Port City Porter has a sharpness that ties everything together.

Stone Smoked Porter: Using a portion of smoked malt, Stone’s Smoked Porter is a great match for barbeque, roasts, game, and of course all things smoked. Not only a great food pairing beer, but a great introduction to the idea of smoked malts and a stepping stone to Rauchbier (more on that in another column…).

Left Hand Fade To Black, Volume 3: Showing the versatility and possibilities of Porter, Colorado’s Left Hand brewery gives the classic Porter a twist by adding black peppercorns to the mix. The pepper comes through on the finish with the slightest hint of heat that fades pretty quickly, but also makes Fade To Black a fantastic match for all kinds of food. With football playoffs starting, this is a great beer to have with finger foods and snacks.

Allagash Black: Excellent smooth Belgian-style Stout; not too strong for everyday, rich enough to satisfy malt fans.

Bell’s Stouts: From the year-round Kalamzoo Stout to specialties like Expedition, Java, Cherry, and Rye, Bell’s does Stout right. If you haven’t, you really should treat yourself to some of these.

Sixpoint Diesel: Brewed ‘without style’, Diesel isn’t technically a Stout but is certainly malty enough to be included here. What makes Diesel stand out is the combination of its dark, roasty malts with a very intense hop character. To me, it’s almost a modern take on the malty but easily-quaffable nature of a Newcastle Brown Ale.

Terrapin MooHoo Stout: A seasonal Milk Chocolate Stout, using lactose as a brewing sugar and cocoa nibs to make an absolute guilty pleasure of a beer. MooHoo is as close as beer gets to being comfort food.

Oskar Blues Ten Fidy: Black as night and rich with chocolate notes, Ten Fidy is unabashedly strong and intense. It’s not always available, but one of the best Stouts made in the U.S.

Dogfish Head WorldWide Stout: The big daddy of American Imperial Stout. Labeled at 18% ABV (but known to vary from batch to batch) WorldWide Stout is not for the timid, but as is the case with their 120 Minute IPA, the patient will be rewarded. As WorldWide ages its dark fruit and sugary notes mellow, and the drinker can find the point at which they prefer theirs. I myself just enjoyed my last 2002 WorldWide this past summer, and really could have held onto it longer if I felt like it. WorldWide will not be made in 2012, but the 2011 batch is hitting shelves now so stock up while you can.

Remember: try everything you can, keep an open mind, and have fun!

Until next time — cheers!

Nick Anderson keeps a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.

Lager, Lager Everywhere by Nick Anderson

2012-01-18T07:49:00.000-08:00

Okay beer fans, let’s get into one of the great conflicts within modern craft beer today: the lack of support for and supply of quality Lagers out there. Worldwide, Lager is everywhere; by far, it’s the most popular style of beer on the planet. The ubiquitous Pilsners and Light Lagers that dominate the market are poor representatives of their style, though — so poor that the raison d’être of the craft beer movement was to create beers that were their opposite. As a consequence, many craft beer drinkers (and brewers for that matter) shy away from Lager. But there are many great Lagers to be found, both traditional in style and not-so-traditional. Let’s get into what Lager is and then find some examples of different styles that best express what Lager’s really all about.

Every beer on the planet can be classified as either a Lager or an Ale. The big difference is that where Ales are fermented at higher temperatures with top-fermenting yeast, Lagers are fermented and conditioned at lower temperatures with bottom-feeding yeast. What you really need to retain about Ales and Lagers is that Ales, on the whole, tend to be fruitier and more expressive than Lagers, which are by nature much ‘cleaner’ flavored and refreshing on the palate. As lighter Lager styles (Pilsners in particular) became mass produced and marketed in the 20^th century, they also became more ‘watered down’. Not literally, of course: adjuncts (most notably corn here in the U.S.) were used to thin out the body of already lighter Lagers, leading to most of the world drinking very boring (and in that dullness non-traditional) beer. Even today this perception of all Lagers are boring or lacking in body persists, especially in light of the popularity of intense India Pale Ales and Stouts.

The truth about Lager is that it’s very difficult to do well. Lager yeasts’ lack of powerful, fruity flavors means that a brewers’ choice of ingredients and techniques is laid bare. There’s little room for error in a Lager, and mistake jump out from them in a big way. When they’re done right though, there’s nothing quite like a great Lager. Here are some common and less than common styles of Lager and examples to go out and try if you can find them:

‘Classic’ Lager: I’m including Dortmunder/Helles/Munich styles of Lager under this umbrella for the sake of not overloading anyone (yet). Traditional Lagers have a rich, bready body with subtle hop notes leading to a refreshing finish. Look for Weihenstephaner Original, Hofbrau Original, Bell’s Lager of the Lakes, Victory All-Malt Lager, and Session Lager.

Marzen: More commonly known as Oktoberfest. There aren’t many Marzen’s to be found year-round, but Heavy Seas Marzen is a good one. When the season comes around try the Oktoberfestbiers from Bell’s, Hofbrau, Ayinger, Schlafly, and Lost Rhino.

Dark Lager: There are many styles of Dark Lager, but the most well-known are Dunkel Lager, Schwarzbier, and Dopplebock. Hofbrau makes a great Dunkel Lager and Session Black Lager is a favorite; Monschof Schwarzbier is the standard of the style; as for Dopplebock, which is a stronger, darker style of Lager, I’d suggest starting with Schneider Aventinus before exploring beers like Weihenstephaner Korbinian, Troegs Troegenator, Bell’s Consecrator (usually only available around February or March), or Augustienerbrau Maximator.

Pilsner: Didn’t think I’d forget, did you? I love a good Pils, and there are many out there to find. Try Victory Prima Pils (one of America’s all-time great craft beers), Sixpoint’s The Crisp, Left Hand Polestar Pils, Stiegl Pils, Rebel Pils, and Oskar Blues Mama’s Lil’ Yella’ Pils.

I hope this helps you find your way to great Lagers. There are too many out there to ignore, and they’re not what you think they are. Until next time.

Cheers!

Nick Anderson keeps a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.

Your Beermonger: The Hop Of The Matter by Nick Anderson

2012-01-03T10:27:00.000-08:00

Our “Beer 101″ session continues this week and I felt that we should address the big issues first so let’s start with hops. Hops are a critical element in what we know today as beer, but have had a difficult relationship with American beer drinkers over the decades. Now, I could wax academic about the history of hops and their cultivation and use, but I feel like we should focus on what you need to know as you enter the wild world of craft beer. Here are the basics:

1. Hops make beer bitter. Yes, hops contribute bitterness to beer. Before hop usage became commonplace in the 11^th century, various herbs and spices were used in an attempt to balance the inherit sweetness in malts. Hops however proved to have the required acids to not only balance malts, but to add a refreshing backbone to beer. Hops were also found to be a natural preservative for beer; in fact, when British colonists found that their Pale Ales were dying on the long trip to India, they added extra hops to the barrels making the long trip. This stronger, more intensely hoppy style became known as India Pale Ale, or IPA (see — beer is history). Throughout the 20th century, in the Age of the American Macro Lager, the bitterness associated with hops was played up to the public at large as a flaw. This was a pure marketing move; an attempt to establish any ‘bitter’ beers as flawed and inferior to their plainer, lighter product.

The irony, of course, is that hoppy beers are what drove the great American microbrew revolution. Almost all American craft beer enthusiasts come into the fold through the discovery of intensely hoppy, flavorful Ales. I know I did. From there, there is a whole world of styles and flavors to discover, but from Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale to Sam Adams Boston Lager to Dogfish Head’s extreme IPAs, hoppy beers are the first step on the journey for beer people coast to coast.

2. “Hoppy” doesn’t necessarily mean “bitter.” Hops express themselves in beer much the same way oak usage does in wine. It’s a flavor that can be either a welcome addition or a distraction. It all comes down to the discretion of the brewer. There are just as many beers that feature hops but have great balance as there are “hop bombs” that appeal to only a small section of drinkers. Unfortunately, they rarely garner the attention they deserve. These beers don’t necessarily have to be IPAs or Pale Ales, mind you: Some of the best Lagers and Pilsners made today use hops to add a sharp streak to liven up a style that otherwise can be kind of plain.

3. You don’t have to love hops to love beer. This is something everyone needs to hear at some point as they get into beer. We all have a limit; a line we have to draw where we say “okay, that’s enough.” It’s okay to find yours. There are plenty of beers and styles where hops play a critical role without overshadowing other elements. Beer is all about finding your where your palate is, and what you like. Again, never let anyone tell you what to like or dislike.

Here are some examples of beers with varying levels of hoppiness that should give you an idea of where your palate lies:

Victory Prima Pils: For years, this has been my “gateway drug” for people who think craft beer is all about being snobby and that there’s no difference between a great artisan beer and ‘everything else.’ The key to Prima Pils is that it’s a very traditional recipe; the hop is just turned up a bit, and handled in a way such that it serves only to add a crispness lacking in most modern Pilsners. For something with a bit more bite, try Sixpoint The Crisp, which takes the idea a small step in the hoppier direction.

Bell’s Pale Ale, Two Hearted IPA: Bell’s is unique among breweries that revel in the glory of the hop: their aesthetic emphasizes balance over in-your-face extremity (that goes out the window for their yearly HopSlam Double IPA, but that’s another story). Bell’s extraordinary, clean, sharp Pale Ale and their hoppy Two Hearted IPA share the same secret — a yeast strain whose fruity character plays well with greater-than-usual amounts of hops. Bell’s Pale Ale is a revelation and Two Hearted is the most popular craft beer around; both merit a try.

Mikkeller Jackie Brown; Bell’s Best Brown Ale: Hops don’t only play a role in Pale Ales, you know. A well-thought addition of hops to a Brown Ale can balance sweet malts and make a darker brew feel more refreshing. Bell’s seasonal Best Brown and Dutch ‘gypsy brewer; Mikkeller’s Jackie Brown are standout examples of this.

Dogfish Head IPAs; West Coast Ales: If you care to take a walk on the hoppy side, avail yourself of the earthy, rich style of Dogfish Head’s famous 60 and 90 Minute IPAs. Hoppy beers from the west coast exhibit more aggressive bite and overtly piney, resiny characteristics; Green Flash West Coast

IPA, Stone Arrogant Bastard, and Avery Dugana are great examples.
Get hopping and we’ll see you next time.

Cheers!

Your Beermonger: What Is Beer? by Nick Anderson

2012-01-03T10:25:00.000-08:00

It’s a fair question: What exactly is beer? Strictly speaking, the conversion of starch to sugar to alcohol constitutes beer. But sake isn’t beer (though technically it could be considered such); so what is it? Well, beer is the third most popular beverage in the world after water and tea and has been such for hundreds if not thousands of years. In modern terms, beer is the fermentation of the basic cereal grains (malted barley, oats, and wheat) with the addition of hops as a natural preservative and for the purposes of adding bitterness to the brew. Everything else in beer is under the discretion of the brewer, and this is where beer gets interesting. For a nerd like me, beer isn’t just a beverage; beer is history.

When water was untrustworthy, there was beer. Where an army stood victorious, it’s beer at the very least shared credit for its victory. Agriculture, religion, enlightenment; where major shifts in thought or power have gone over the centuries, beer has followed or led the way. There are a great many misconceptions about beer these days; what with the rise of microbreweries and the idea of artisan beer as some sort of luxury or oddity. The basics of beer however are enduring and absurdly simple.

1. The heart of beer is a blend of grain, yeast, water and hops. There are some more esoteric styles that don’t necessitate hops, but for all intents and purposes, we can go by these simple ingredients as the base of what beer is. The Germans have run with this basic allowance since the 16^th century and to this day, the German Reinheitsgebot, the beer purity law, has only allowed for variations within this strict set of ingredients.

2. Beer is, and shall always be, a beverage of the people. Beer production dates back far beyond that of wine or spirit, and played a great role in humans becoming an agricultural society. Look at any civilization, and you’ll find some form of what we call beer among them, and not in an abstract sense, either. The production of beer requires time, materials, and the farming those materials demand; where there is an organization of peoples, there is a beer that they drank as a regular part of their diet.

From there, discussion of beer and its principles tends to devolve, unfortunately. What is certain is the many styles of beer developed over time and the advancements made by bold visionary brewers who dare to see beyond tradition while simultaneously harkening to it. The trick for those new to craft beer is to not be defensive; to understand that there are style and brews that won’t be for them, or that they may not have the experience to fully appreciate. For those entering the world of craft beer, keep this in mind: The beer you’ll be trying will be fuller in flavor and body than what you’re used to. Start by asking your neighborhood provisioner for recommendations for beers that aren’t too intense and representative of their style. Take note of what it is you enjoy or don’t in each beer, and go from there.

In the coming weeks, we’ll be taking a look at various styles of beer, how they came to be and where they’re going. In the meantime, here’s a list of beers that I feel showcase various styles well and are approachable by the craft beer newcomer and devotee alike:

Lager: Weihenstephaner Original; Bell’s Lager Of The Lakes; Victory Prima Pils; Jever Pils; Lagunitas Czech Pils.

Pale Ale: Bell’s Pale Ale; Port City Pale Ale; Victory Headwaters Pale; Schlafly American Pale Ale; St. Peter’s Organic English Pale Ale.

India Pale Ale: Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA; Port City Monumental IPA; Heavy Seas Loose Cannon; Bell’s Two Hearted Ale; Founder’s Centennial IPA.

Porter: Port City Porter; Samuel Smith’s Taddy Porter; Founder’s Porter; Troeg’s Dead Reckoning.
Stout: Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout; Oskar Blues Ten Fidy; Founder’s Breakfast Stout; Dogfish Head Worldwide Stout; Sixpoint Diesel.

Amber: Bell’s Amber; New Belgium Fat Tire; Troeg’s Hopback Amber; Troeg’s Nugget Nectar.

Hefeweizen: Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen; Schneider Weisse; Lagunitas Doppel Weizen.

Belgian Ales: Ommegang Witte; Port City Optimal Wit; Westmalle Tripel; Gouden Carolus Classic, Tripel; Rochefort 6, 8, and 10; Duvel; Orval; Delirium Tremens; Tilquin Gueuze; Duchess de Bourgogne; Scotch de Silly.

This should get you started down the path to beervana. Remember that no matter what anyone tries to tell you — it’s just beer. There’s no need to feel like you have to like something; either you do or you don’t. There are enough styles and beers to go around; never allow yourself to be told what you enjoy.

Cheers!

Gifts for the Wine Lover by Doug Rosen

2012-01-03T10:21:00.000-08:00

When searching for the perfect gift for the wine lover, we should really start at the most obvious: a truly special bottle of wine. If your recipient likes wines of a particular variety, like California cabernet, you might look for a special bottle from a hard-to-find producer. Or ask your wine merchant to help you select a wine from a different place or made from a different grape that has a similar flavor profile to your recipient’s favorite.

Perhaps you can find an older bottle that has been properly cared for and squirreled away. Fine wine merchants often hold some stocks of highly rated selections and offer them for sale at the peak of drinkability, giving a client an opportunity to experience what a well-aged, well cared for wine tastes like. The bottles’ bouquet, palate feel and complexity can only develop over time and no amount of decanting can yield the same results.

Port makes a great gift as there are so many delicious options and in most cases, the consumer can enjoy a well-aged wine immediately.

You can’t go wrong with an aged Tawny Port. It’s hard to beat a glass of Port on a cold evening in front of a fire. The most popular Tawny Ports are 10-year-old and 20-year-old, but you can also find 30 and 40-year-old examples. The number of years designated on the bottle represents the average age of the blend from several vats of various years. Tawny Ports are aged in large wood vats and as they age they slowly oxidize and mellow, losing color and sweetness while gaining nuttiness. Since they are aged in wood for extended periods of time, they don’t need decanting and can be enjoyed to the last drop. Another beauty of Tawny Port is once open they can be enjoyed for months — just keep them in the refrigerator.

Ports represent great value, given that the grower has held the wine in his cellar and aged it for you. Tawny’s are best served cool, which helps moderate the higher alcohol level. They are a gift that keeps on giving.

Vintage Ports are the King of Port Wines. They represent the best wines that a producer can make, encompassing only about two percent of the producer’s total production. They are produced on average only three times in a decade. Vintage Ports are made from the grapes of the finest parcels of land, from usually the oldest vines, the finest farms, and from a single harvest. To this day many houses still tread the grapes under foot in shallow concrete vats. Law dictates they must be bottled unfiltered after only two years in barrel. They are then offered for sale, letting the consumer age them in his cellar. They often need 30 to 40 years to reach their full potential. A good fine wine shop will stock Vintage Ports dating back to the seventies and offer mature wines for sale.
Vintage Ports are truly a grand experience, requiring some forethought as the bottle must stand upright for several days to let the sediment slowly drift to the bottom. Even with three days in an upright position, you will want to decant the wine using a funnel and screen (widely available), rinse out the original bottle to remove the remaining sediment, and then return the decanted wine to the original bottle. After that, you are ready to serve it. Unlike Tawny Ports, Vintage Ports are best consumed within a day or so after opening.

Enjoying vintage port may seem like a lot of work, but I promise you it’s well worth it. Match this grandest of wines with Colston Bassett Stilton, slices of pear, and nuts and you are in for one of the most revered wine and food pairings in the world.

Try it you’ll love it!

How to Taste Wine Like the Pros by Doug Rosen

2011-12-09T09:16:00.000-08:00

Okay, there’s no way around it; it takes years of training and experience to taste wine like a pro. However, there are a few things you can learn to be better equipped to analyze and enjoy the wine in your glass.

The first thing is to start out with a clean glass. That would seem obvious but it isn’t. By clean I mean NEVER use a glass straight from your cabinet without first rinsing it with water. All cabinets impart aromas to glasses in a matter of minutes. These aromas taint the wine instantly. Not to mention that many soaps and dishwasher detergents leave noticeable aromatic residues. This is the single most prevalent mistake made.

There are some out there in the wine world who think that rinsing a glass with wine is enough to season a glass but they are wrong. Detergents and their residues are formulated to dissolve in water, not wine, and wine doesn’t get rid of cabinet smells either. Tap water is fine to rinse a glass; if you can then use a little wine in the rinsed glass to remove the water residue and season the glass, even better.

Now how to taste. Start off by selecting a glass that’s generous (at least 8 oz); this gives you enough surface area to swirl the wine and expose it to oxygen without spilling it all over yourself.

Color:

Pour about 1 to 2 ounces in the glass. Use a sheet of white paper, holding it behind the glass to try to get a real sense of the wines’ clarity and color.

Is the wine clear or cloudy? Wine in the glass should always be clear and translucent.

Tilt the glass and observe the color to the rim. Is it consistent or does the color or hue taper off. Young wines have less color variation. Oak aging also fixes color in both reds and whites. The more new wood the deeper the color. Older red wines can take on a brickish tone, while whites become golden.

Not all wines are deeply colored. Malbec, cabernet and merlot-based wines are blue to purple, while pinot noirs, gamays, nebbiolo and sangiovese-based wines have less color naturally and are more red in appearance.

The Nose:

To get started, swirl the wine in the glass to release the aromas. Tilt the glass and really get your nose in there. This is perhaps the most complicated part of the process. The nose tells you many things.

The aroma of the wine should be identifiable as coming from a particular grape variety, for example plums for merlot or lime for sauvignon blanc. The nose also tells you if a wine has been aged in oak and if so what kind of oak was used: spice/vanilla aromas from French oak or coconut aromas from American oak. Keep in mind that the aromatics contributed from the oak aging should never dominate the aromatic profile.

The nose is also the first place to pick up defects in a wine such as:

Cork taint, which imparts an earthy, cardboard-like smell, akin to a wet basement
Volatile acidity, or a vinegar smell
Excess sulphur, like a burned match
Oxidation, or a sherry-like aroma
Mercaptan, smells like skunk
Brettanomyces, which has many unpleasant variations such as barnyard, leather, mouse or band-aid like smells.

Remember, a wine is fermented from grapes and should always smell “fruity.” If it doesn’t, that’s not good! And now for the fun part…

Tasting the wine:

Take a sip large enough to cover your palate and hold it in your mouth, yet open your lips and inhale slightly to oxygenate the wine. Is the wine dry or sweet? Smooth or coarse? Notice the weight of the wine, what we call the body. Is the wine thin/watery or thick/oily? Are the acids in balance? Is the wine refreshing to drink or fatiguing? Are the flavors complex or simple? After spitting the wine out (yes, you have to spit if you’re tasting), do the flavors of the wine stay with you or do they evaporate immediately? Are all the flavors in balance or as I like to say, is the wine a circle with nothing protruding? What flavors come to mind? Get creative!

Throw a party:

The best way to learn about wine is to taste several wines at a time. The most educational approach is to (for example) try several chardonnays from Burgundy; better yet from one a village like Chasssagne Montrachet but from different vineyards in the village. Or chardonnays from around the world: one from California, France, Australia and South Africa etc. That’s fun and educational. Invite some friends and pull some corks!

Your Wine Guy: Understanding Terroir by Doug Rosen

2011-12-02T12:49:00.000-08:00

Why drink wine? If liquor is quicker and beer cheaper, what makes us go to such lengths to understand, collect and treasure wine?

The answer is simple: no other beverage — alcoholic or not — has the ability to convey the unique flavors of its birthplace. Wine and wine alone, when deftly made, speaks of the flavors of a unique plot, climate, and growing season.

Have you ever wondered why an Oregon pinot noir doesn’t taste like a Burgundy? Or why a Bordeaux doesn’t taste like a California cabernet or a Cahors like an Argentine Malbec? Terroir is the first place to look. It’s the expression of a unique signature, of an address that can’t be duplicated; the elusive specificity, driven by the confluence of grapes, soil, and sun. It’s the notion that only fermented grape juice has the ability to sign its own birth certificate.

Even identical grapes planted yards apart can yield different flavors. The undulating hills of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or (golden slope) are the world’s most famous example. Wine enthusiasts can spend lifetimes trying to understand and master the subtleties and nuances of each of the hundreds of parcels. Each of these parcels can have a slightly different soil structure due to its location on the slope, sun exposure and drainage, creates thousands of unique microclimates that affect everything from taste, to aromas, to longevity.

How to explore the notion of terroir? Taste, taste and taste some more, but don’t just taste one bottle at a time. Taste with a purpose. Select at least four different wines of the same varietal (e.g. cabernet, pinot noir or chardonnay) and taste them at one time (a great party theme), noting the differences in color, aromas, texture, flavors and finish. All four can be from the same viticulture area (e.g. Napa Valley, Willamette Valley or Burgundy) or you can choose to tour the world, and select one from each area (e.g. pinot noir from California, Oregon, Burgundy and New Zealand). For an even more challenging tasting, select four from the same village and note the differences that can be found within an area of only a few square miles (e.g. Chambolle Musigny in Burgundy).

Have fun, but pay attention to your preferences. Was it the aromas, mouth-feel or flavors that you especially liked? Try to dissect exactly what about those components drew you in. Armed with that information, your local fine wine merchant can serve you better on your next visit.

Shopping List

Sauvignon Blanc From Around the World

2009 Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $13.99
2010 Domaine Joel Delaunay Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine, France $14.99
2010 Yorkville Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino, California $17.99
2010 Colutta, Colli Orientali Del Friuli, Italy $19.99

Pinot Noir From Around the World

2010 Over The Edge, Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand $15.99
2010 Grochau Cellars Commuter Cuvee, Willamette Valley, Oregon $19.99
2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot Bourgogne – $21.99 $21.99
2009 Banshee Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California $25.99

Wines Within One Area – 2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault

2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Les Tillets” $49.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru $75.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Genevrières 1er Cru $79.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault Perrières 1er Cru $82.99

Picking The Right Thanksgiving Wine by Doug Rosen

2011-11-30T07:22:00.000-08:00

Every year around late November, the phrase “Okay, you bring the wine for Thanksgiving” strikes fear into the hearts of millions of Americans. Thanksgiving dinner is the culinary equivalent to Dante’s Inferno and poses a distinct pairing challenge.

Why is Thanksgiving dinner so difficult? Well, let’s face it — turkey is pretty bland. We brine it, marinate it, stuff it, spice it, and perhaps even deep-fry it. Then we throw the entire kitchen pantry at it in an effort to add some flavor to the Thanksgiving meal.

To further complicate the Thanksgiving conundrum, the meal can be completely different in every home. It’s not easy to try to find the right wine for the hodgepodge that is each of our Thanksgiving dinners. Like a favorite pair of jeans, each of us has familiar and comfortable “traditional family” dishes, without which Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be the same.

From my experience, most Thanksgiving meals are distinctively sweet. Adding sweetness in any form — cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, marshmallows — changes the wine equation.

So here’s the vinous equivalent of a “Get Out Of Jail Free” card: If anything, and I mean anything, on your Thanksgiving table is sweet then you can’t serve a bone-dry wine. It doesn’t matter whether it’s red or white, if there’s anything sweet on the plate, a bone-dry wine will clash with the food.

A great wine selection would be a fruit-focused or fruit-forward California or Oregon pinot noir that is not oaky, like the 2010 Angeline (California) or 2009 Artisanal (Oregon). If you want a little wood, try a California zinfandel like the 2009 Quivira, which has lots of fruit.

If your Thanksgiving dinner is truly savory, then I would opt for a delicious glass of food-friendly Beaujolais like 2009 Chateau Prety, or Red Burgundy (Bourgogne) like 2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot. Another delicious French pinot noir is the 2009 Grosbot-Barbara Chambre d’Edouard from the Loire Valley. Overall 2009 was an outstanding vintage throughout France.

Be sure to stay away from reds with aggressive grape tannins such as young red Bordeaux, Argentine malbecs or most California cabernets. The tannins make turkey taste metallic.

While many people prefer red wine with turkey, I prefer white, such as a pinot gris from Oregon like 2010 Willow Crest, pinot blanc from Alsace like 2010 Fritsch, or a slightly off dry Mosel Kabinett from Germany like 2009 Ehlen Erderner Treppchen.

With the weather turning cooler, a bottle of 10-year-old Tawny Port as a gift for your host is a great idea. Nothing is more welcomed as the autumn nights turn cooler than a small glass of port and it keeps in the refrigerator for months.

And don’t forget to bring Champagne or your favorite sparkling wine to drink while cooking or watching Thanksgiving football. A glass or two of bubbly will keep the cook and guests happy.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Shopping list:

Reds

2010 Angeline Pinot Noir – $12.99
2009 Chateau Prety Beaujolais Villages – $14.99
2009 Sean Minor Four Bears Pinot Noir – $16.99
2009 Grosbot-Barbara Chambre d’Edouard – $16.99
2009 Quivira Zinfandel – $19.99
2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot Bourgogne – $21.99
2009 Artisanal Pinot Noir – $24.99
2008 Baileyana Pinot Noir – $25.99

Whites

2010 Willow Crest Pinot Gris – $14.99
2009 Cave Spring Riesling – $14.99
2010 Fritsch Pinot Blanc – $14.99
2009 Ehlen Erderner Treppchen Kabinett – $15.99
2009 Domaine Larredya Jurançon Sec – $19.99

Champagne

Dumont NV – $35.99
Jose Michel Tradition NV – $38.99
Jean Vesselle Reserve – $44.99

Tawny Port

Burmester Jockey Club Reserve – $25.99
Quinta de La Rosa 10 Year – $29.99

Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.

Understanding The Master of Milk, Willi Schmid

2011-07-14T12:43:00.000-07:00

After spending two weeks with Willi Schmid and his crew at Städtlichäsi creamery in Lichtensteig, Switzerland, I came to understand what makes this cheesemaker and his cheese so special. World famous Swiss affineur Rolf Beeler, the great Swiss cheese importer Caroline Hostettler, and the author of Swiss Cheese, Dominik Flammer all say he is the best. But, I needed to understand for myself, what makes him so great?

Willi Schmid, a lifetime resident of the Toggenburg region of Switzerland, is a master at listening to the voice of the land and translating that voice into distinctive and ever-evolving artisanal cheese. His unprecedented creativity and a very broad knowledge of the science of cheese makes him one of the world’s leading cheesemakers. He has truly taken the craft of cheesemaking to a new level. Simply put, Willi Schmid combines innovation with tradition to create unique cheeses of the highest quality that also happen to be Swiss. But there is nothing simple about how Willi accomplishes this. His understanding of the milk of his region is unsurpassed and he knows how to transform a specific day’s milk into an appropriate cheese expression. He has largely broken free of the classic Swiss cheese types and creates many styles, from goat’s milk blues to pine bark-wrapped washed rinds; about 30 different kinds in all. Though some of these styles are new, they are completely terroir driven; conveying the personality of each milk, the season, and the land.

Willi Schmid thinks and operates and on a very intense level. In the creamery, he moves fast and exacting while juggling three to five recipes at one time in his head, using only his nose and palate, a thermometer, and 28 years of experience to guide him. Before 9 a.m. this man has received milk from a few local farmers, driven to get local milk, driven the whey to local pigs, and made not just one great batch of cheese, but about four different kinds. They are all made with raw or thermised (gently pasteurized) milk from Brown Swiss and Jersey cows, goats, sheep, and even four beautiful water buffalo. After using very unique and innovative techniques in the creamery, the bare minimum is done in the caves in order to let the milk shine. There is little blue mold or white bloom and no heavy washed rinds.

For Willi, the raw materials are absolutely the most important element of cheesemaking. He lives by the philosophy that only great cheese can come from great milk. Working with the area’s best farmers, he only uses milk of the highest quality. Willi examines the milk each morning by tasting it and only decides then which cheese recipe will best express the milk. He is very aware of the seasonal changes to the milk and isn’t afraid to adjust his production schedule because of these changes.

Just like the different wine varietals, each breed’s milk tastes different and, therefore, some of his cheeses are only made with a certain breed’s milk, and often only a particular herd of that breed. This kind of attention to detail reminds me of great winemakers but, in the world of cheese, this practice is almost unheard of.

I credit my experience and education at Arrowine for understanding the importance of raw materials and the effects of manipulation in regard to wine and cheese. My bosses Doug Rosen and Shemsedin Hassen consistently select wines that are an honest expression of the grape and land it grows on. I have heard them say over and over that, “Great wine is made in the vineyards”. It is not made with technology and especially not made by just creating a wine for the masses or the reviewers.

Jersey Blue, draining

Willi fills the forms with curd by hand.

Jersey Blue curds

Similarly, the very best cheeses are an honest expression of their breed of animal, it’s milk, and the land it eats from. They are not heavily manipulated in the creamery or aging cellars. Great cheese is made in the fields, but it is also made by great farmers and cheesemakers.

The author of Swiss Cheese, Dominik Flammer, said to me, “There is always tradition behind innovation”. This is what makes Willi Schmid so great: he has mastered the classics during his 28 year career and yet has risen to a higher level of artistry that we can all admire and enjoy.

More posts about my trip, Willi Schmid, and the Swiss dairy culture coming soon!

From Arlington to The Alps!

2011-05-01T07:48:00.000-07:00

Katie Carter Journeys to Switzerland

When I became a cheesemonger in 2004, I took it upon myself to learn everything I could from other serious cheese professionals and organizations. My education took me to New York every week for a "Master Cheese Class" at the Artisanal Cheese Center in Manhattan. It was during these classes that I discovered the work of Swiss Affineur, Rolf Beeler. Rolf Beeler does not make cheese, he selects cheese from only the best producers around Switzerland and carefully ages them to perfection in his caves. Beeler then puts his own label on the cheese and sells them throughout the world.

Like most other people, the extent of my knowledge of Swiss Cheese prior to being a cheesemonger was limited to mediocre Gruyere, Appenzeller, and really bad Emmenthaler knockoffs. It was because of Beeler's work that I fell in love with the cheeses of Switzerland.

Swiss Affineur (cheese ager), Rolf Beeler

Arrowine introduced as many Beeler and other great Swiss cheeses as I could to our cheese-loving customers. We all marveled at the diversity of flavors and textures, as well as the fine craftsmanship of traditional Swiss cheesemakers. I was so impressed with the new Swiss Cheeses, that when we began selling "Forsterkase", I declared it to be "life-changing" on its sign. Yes, this cheesemonger got a lot of laughs and funny looks for that one.

Turns out, that cheese IS changing my life. In January, I attended a tasting in Manhattan to meet the creator of that cheese, Willi Schmid. Beyond tasting almost his entire collection of cheese creations (over 24), I became completely inspired by his work, his stories, his dedication to the craft. It was clear this man was at the forefront of a new movement of cheesemaking. I decided then that I had to learn more from him and that going to his tiny village in Switzerland was the best way to accomplish that.


Willi Schmid

Today, I will be traveling to Lichtensteig, Switzerland to work with Willi at his creamery in order to know as much as possible about him, his cheese, and his unique methods. In addition to working in the creamery, I will be traveling throughout Switzerland visiting other cheesemakers, farmers, and affineurs to learn the details of the country's cheese culture. Expect many pictures, stories, tastings, and lots of fascinating details. Follow my journey on this blog, Arrowine's Facebook page, and via twitter.

Wish me good luck, people! Did I mention I can't speak German...?
~Katie Carter

The 2011 Cheesemonger Invitational!

2011-04-21T09:57:00.000-07:00

Arrowine's Cheese Department Manager, Perry Soulos, will be competing in the 2nd annual Cheesemonger Invitational this July in New York!! The Cheesemonger Invitational is the biggest gathering of the year for cheese professionals. Fromagers, cheesemongers, and other cheese lovers convene at the Larkin cheese warehouse to celebrate cheese and the professionals who support the craft.

So, what do cheesemongers do when they get together? Eat cheese, show off their crazy mongering skills, and party, of course! The mind-blowing cheese inspired dishes of Chef Tia Keenan, will be served; the thoughtful and creative fare is sure to inspire the visiting mongers to rethink the typical cheese board. Also, cheese-slinging DJ's will rock the warehouse all night. Thankfully, I doubt the music will be cheese-inspired.

The night's biggest event, though, will be a competition between the country's top mongers. $10,000 in cash prizes will be awarded to the top ten. Wrapping, cutting, displaying, and selling skills will be put to the test in what Larkin describes as, "Iron chef meets American Idol meets Dancing with the Stars FOR CHEESE". Don't you wish you were a cheesemonger?!

We'll keep you updated and let you know how we rank. Wish us good luck!

Willi Schmid's Millstone

2011-04-14T09:05:00.000-07:00

In a land united by wonderful dairy products, cheesemaker Willi Schmid represents the new school of Swiss cheese. Schmid is a true innovator and creates over two dozen cheeses that most wouldn't associate with the grand mountain cheeses of Switzerland. Though making cheese is a relatively new venture for Schmid, his creations have already been recognized as some of the very best in all of Switzerland. Swiss affineur (professional cheese ager) Rolf Beeler said of Schmid, "No other cheesemaker in our country is as talented, as curious and as innovative as Willi".

He creates cheese on a tiny scale in his small creamery in Lichtensteig, about an hour east of Zurich. Each day he personally collects goat, cow, sheep, or water buffalo's milk from his farmers. He only decides what cheese to make after tasting the milk. This is practically unheard of, as most cheesemakers adhere to a rigid cheesemaking schedule and market demands. Not Willi. His artistic nature, the milk characteristics, and the seasons determine which cheese is made. Schmid fervently defends the tradition of using pure, raw milk as he (and most cheesemakers) believe the best cheese is made with unadulterated, raw milk. It is a fundamental notion that flavors of the land shine through if milk is absolutely pure and made into cheese very soon after the animals are milked.

Among his many cheeses is Millstone, a large cheese made into a shape of a wheel (or a millstone), with a hole in the middle. Made from raw Jersey cow's milk, the yellowish paste is semi soft in texture and riddled with many, small "mechanical" holes. The gray rind grows naturally during the cheese's six to ten week ripening period in Schmid's aging rooms. The aroma of the rind is musty but delicate, while the paste has a sweet milky aroma. It does have a cow smell, not to be confused with a farm smell. There are no funky, unclean aromas of a rustic barn. The flavors are clean, rich, and the taste of the pastures that the cows graze on shine through. It also offers a well-balanced acidity which rounds out the cheese.

Millstone differs from the typical Alpine cheeses that Arrowine sells. It is relatively young and does not offer the very deep, complex nutty flavors of say, Hoch Ybrig or Gruyere. This can be a welcome change, as Millstone can be eaten casually everyday on it's own and in cooking.

Though we have developed a strong relationship with Willi Schmid and Caroline Hostettler, the fantastic importer who discovered Willi, we have found it difficult to keep a steady supply of his cheese in stock. Around the world, demand for his creations is huge. Schmid only releases his cheese when he deems them perfect, which we all respect, but sometimes the timing is not in our favor. Be sure to ask the mongers at Arrowine if we have any of his cheeses, they are all beautiful and deserve your attention. At this time, we have about half a wheel left of Millstone. Stop in soon for a taste, this exceptional cheese won't last long.

~Katie Carter, cheesemonger

Catherine Faller of Domaine Weinbach stops by Arrowine!

2011-04-05T13:56:00.000-07:00

Today, we were lucky enough to be visited by Catherine Faller, proprietor of Domaine Weinbach in Alsace, France. She briefly talks to Doug about the '08 and '09 vintages and her switch to Biodynamic practices.

Welcome to the Arrowine Blog!

2011-04-05T13:48:00.000-07:00

We are adding a blog to our list of ways to passing on our passion and knowledge for all things wine, craft beer, artisanal cheese, and charcuterie. Our wonderful cheesemongers and wine staff will be contributing to this blog. Feel free to comment and give suggestions on specific topics you would like to hear about. Thanks for the support, cheers!