Okay beer fans, let’s get into one of the great conflicts within modern craft beer today: the lack of support for and supply of quality Lagers out there. Worldwide, Lager is everywhere; by far, it’s the most popular style of beer on the planet. The ubiquitous Pilsners and Light Lagers that dominate the market are poor representatives of their style, though — so poor that the raison d’être of the craft beer movement was to create beers that were their opposite. As a consequence, many craft beer drinkers (and brewers for that matter) shy away from Lager. But there are many great Lagers to be found, both traditional in style and not-so-traditional. Let’s get into what Lager is and then find some examples of different styles that best express what Lager’s really all about.
Every beer on the planet can be classified as either a Lager or an Ale. The big difference is that where Ales are fermented at higher temperatures with top-fermenting yeast, Lagers are fermented and conditioned at lower temperatures with bottom-feeding yeast. What you really need to retain about Ales and Lagers is that Ales, on the whole, tend to be fruitier and more expressive than Lagers, which are by nature much ‘cleaner’ flavored and refreshing on the palate. As lighter Lager styles (Pilsners in particular) became mass produced and marketed in the 20th century, they also became more ‘watered down’. Not literally, of course: adjuncts (most notably corn here in the U.S.) were used to thin out the body of already lighter Lagers, leading to most of the world drinking very boring (and in that dullness non-traditional) beer. Even today this perception of all Lagers are boring or lacking in body persists, especially in light of the popularity of intense India Pale Ales and Stouts.
The truth about Lager is that it’s very difficult to do well. Lager yeasts’ lack of powerful, fruity flavors means that a brewers’ choice of ingredients and techniques is laid bare. There’s little room for error in a Lager, and mistake jump out from them in a big way. When they’re done right though, there’s nothing quite like a great Lager. Here are some common and less than common styles of Lager and examples to go out and try if you can find them:
‘Classic’ Lager: I’m including Dortmunder/Helles/Munich styles of Lager under this umbrella for the sake of not overloading anyone (yet). Traditional Lagers have a rich, bready body with subtle hop notes leading to a refreshing finish. Look for Weihenstephaner Original, Hofbrau Original, Bell’s Lager of the Lakes, Victory All-Malt Lager, and Session Lager.
Marzen: More commonly known as Oktoberfest. There aren’t many Marzen’s to be found year-round, but Heavy Seas Marzen is a good one. When the season comes around try the Oktoberfestbiers from Bell’s, Hofbrau, Ayinger, Schlafly, and Lost Rhino.
Dark Lager: There are many styles of Dark Lager, but the most well-known are Dunkel Lager, Schwarzbier, and Dopplebock. Hofbrau makes a great Dunkel Lager and Session Black Lager is a favorite; Monschof Schwarzbier is the standard of the style; as for Dopplebock, which is a stronger, darker style of Lager, I’d suggest starting with Schneider Aventinus before exploring beers like Weihenstephaner Korbinian, Troegs Troegenator, Bell’s Consecrator (usually only available around February or March), or Augustienerbrau Maximator.
Pilsner: Didn’t think I’d forget, did you? I love a good Pils, and there are many out there to find. Try Victory Prima Pils (one of America’s all-time great craft beers), Sixpoint’s The Crisp, Left Hand Polestar Pils, Stiegl Pils, Rebel Pils, and Oskar Blues Mama’s Lil’ Yella’ Pils.
I hope this helps you find your way to great Lagers. There are too many out there to ignore, and they’re not what you think they are. Until next time.
Cheers!
Nick Anderson keeps a blog at www.beermonger.net, and can be found on Twitter at @The_Beermonger. Sign up for Arrowine’s money saving email offers and free wine and beer tastings at www.arrowine.com/mailing-list-signup.aspx.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
Your Beermonger: The Hop Of The Matter by Nick Anderson
Our “Beer 101″ session continues this week and I felt that we should address the big issues first so let’s start with hops. Hops are a critical element in what we know today as beer, but have had a difficult relationship with American beer drinkers over the decades. Now, I could wax academic about the history of hops and their cultivation and use, but I feel like we should focus on what you need to know as you enter the wild world of craft beer. Here are the basics:
1. Hops make beer bitter. Yes, hops contribute bitterness to beer. Before hop usage became commonplace in the 11th century, various herbs and spices were used in an attempt to balance the inherit sweetness in malts. Hops however proved to have the required acids to not only balance malts, but to add a refreshing backbone to beer. Hops were also found to be a natural preservative for beer; in fact, when British colonists found that their Pale Ales were dying on the long trip to India, they added extra hops to the barrels making the long trip. This stronger, more intensely hoppy style became known as India Pale Ale, or IPA (see — beer is history). Throughout the 20th century, in the Age of the American Macro Lager, the bitterness associated with hops was played up to the public at large as a flaw. This was a pure marketing move; an attempt to establish any ‘bitter’ beers as flawed and inferior to their plainer, lighter product.
The irony, of course, is that hoppy beers are what drove the great American microbrew revolution. Almost all American craft beer enthusiasts come into the fold through the discovery of intensely hoppy, flavorful Ales. I know I did. From there, there is a whole world of styles and flavors to discover, but from Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale to Sam Adams Boston Lager to Dogfish Head’s extreme IPAs, hoppy beers are the first step on the journey for beer people coast to coast.
2. “Hoppy” doesn’t necessarily mean “bitter.” Hops express themselves in beer much the same way oak usage does in wine. It’s a flavor that can be either a welcome addition or a distraction. It all comes down to the discretion of the brewer. There are just as many beers that feature hops but have great balance as there are “hop bombs” that appeal to only a small section of drinkers. Unfortunately, they rarely garner the attention they deserve. These beers don’t necessarily have to be IPAs or Pale Ales, mind you: Some of the best Lagers and Pilsners made today use hops to add a sharp streak to liven up a style that otherwise can be kind of plain.
3. You don’t have to love hops to love beer. This is something everyone needs to hear at some point as they get into beer. We all have a limit; a line we have to draw where we say “okay, that’s enough.” It’s okay to find yours. There are plenty of beers and styles where hops play a critical role without overshadowing other elements. Beer is all about finding your where your palate is, and what you like. Again, never let anyone tell you what to like or dislike.
Here are some examples of beers with varying levels of hoppiness that should give you an idea of where your palate lies:
Victory Prima Pils: For years, this has been my “gateway drug” for people who think craft beer is all about being snobby and that there’s no difference between a great artisan beer and ‘everything else.’ The key to Prima Pils is that it’s a very traditional recipe; the hop is just turned up a bit, and handled in a way such that it serves only to add a crispness lacking in most modern Pilsners. For something with a bit more bite, try Sixpoint The Crisp, which takes the idea a small step in the hoppier direction.
Bell’s Pale Ale, Two Hearted IPA: Bell’s is unique among breweries that revel in the glory of the hop: their aesthetic emphasizes balance over in-your-face extremity (that goes out the window for their yearly HopSlam Double IPA, but that’s another story). Bell’s extraordinary, clean, sharp Pale Ale and their hoppy Two Hearted IPA share the same secret — a yeast strain whose fruity character plays well with greater-than-usual amounts of hops. Bell’s Pale Ale is a revelation and Two Hearted is the most popular craft beer around; both merit a try.
Mikkeller Jackie Brown; Bell’s Best Brown Ale: Hops don’t only play a role in Pale Ales, you know. A well-thought addition of hops to a Brown Ale can balance sweet malts and make a darker brew feel more refreshing. Bell’s seasonal Best Brown and Dutch ‘gypsy brewer; Mikkeller’s Jackie Brown are standout examples of this.
Dogfish Head IPAs; West Coast Ales: If you care to take a walk on the hoppy side, avail yourself of the earthy, rich style of Dogfish Head’s famous 60 and 90 Minute IPAs. Hoppy beers from the west coast exhibit more aggressive bite and overtly piney, resiny characteristics; Green Flash West Coast
IPA, Stone Arrogant Bastard, and Avery Dugana are great examples.
Get hopping and we’ll see you next time.
Cheers!
1. Hops make beer bitter. Yes, hops contribute bitterness to beer. Before hop usage became commonplace in the 11th century, various herbs and spices were used in an attempt to balance the inherit sweetness in malts. Hops however proved to have the required acids to not only balance malts, but to add a refreshing backbone to beer. Hops were also found to be a natural preservative for beer; in fact, when British colonists found that their Pale Ales were dying on the long trip to India, they added extra hops to the barrels making the long trip. This stronger, more intensely hoppy style became known as India Pale Ale, or IPA (see — beer is history). Throughout the 20th century, in the Age of the American Macro Lager, the bitterness associated with hops was played up to the public at large as a flaw. This was a pure marketing move; an attempt to establish any ‘bitter’ beers as flawed and inferior to their plainer, lighter product.
The irony, of course, is that hoppy beers are what drove the great American microbrew revolution. Almost all American craft beer enthusiasts come into the fold through the discovery of intensely hoppy, flavorful Ales. I know I did. From there, there is a whole world of styles and flavors to discover, but from Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale to Sam Adams Boston Lager to Dogfish Head’s extreme IPAs, hoppy beers are the first step on the journey for beer people coast to coast.
2. “Hoppy” doesn’t necessarily mean “bitter.” Hops express themselves in beer much the same way oak usage does in wine. It’s a flavor that can be either a welcome addition or a distraction. It all comes down to the discretion of the brewer. There are just as many beers that feature hops but have great balance as there are “hop bombs” that appeal to only a small section of drinkers. Unfortunately, they rarely garner the attention they deserve. These beers don’t necessarily have to be IPAs or Pale Ales, mind you: Some of the best Lagers and Pilsners made today use hops to add a sharp streak to liven up a style that otherwise can be kind of plain.
3. You don’t have to love hops to love beer. This is something everyone needs to hear at some point as they get into beer. We all have a limit; a line we have to draw where we say “okay, that’s enough.” It’s okay to find yours. There are plenty of beers and styles where hops play a critical role without overshadowing other elements. Beer is all about finding your where your palate is, and what you like. Again, never let anyone tell you what to like or dislike.
Here are some examples of beers with varying levels of hoppiness that should give you an idea of where your palate lies:
Victory Prima Pils: For years, this has been my “gateway drug” for people who think craft beer is all about being snobby and that there’s no difference between a great artisan beer and ‘everything else.’ The key to Prima Pils is that it’s a very traditional recipe; the hop is just turned up a bit, and handled in a way such that it serves only to add a crispness lacking in most modern Pilsners. For something with a bit more bite, try Sixpoint The Crisp, which takes the idea a small step in the hoppier direction.
Bell’s Pale Ale, Two Hearted IPA: Bell’s is unique among breweries that revel in the glory of the hop: their aesthetic emphasizes balance over in-your-face extremity (that goes out the window for their yearly HopSlam Double IPA, but that’s another story). Bell’s extraordinary, clean, sharp Pale Ale and their hoppy Two Hearted IPA share the same secret — a yeast strain whose fruity character plays well with greater-than-usual amounts of hops. Bell’s Pale Ale is a revelation and Two Hearted is the most popular craft beer around; both merit a try.
Mikkeller Jackie Brown; Bell’s Best Brown Ale: Hops don’t only play a role in Pale Ales, you know. A well-thought addition of hops to a Brown Ale can balance sweet malts and make a darker brew feel more refreshing. Bell’s seasonal Best Brown and Dutch ‘gypsy brewer; Mikkeller’s Jackie Brown are standout examples of this.
Dogfish Head IPAs; West Coast Ales: If you care to take a walk on the hoppy side, avail yourself of the earthy, rich style of Dogfish Head’s famous 60 and 90 Minute IPAs. Hoppy beers from the west coast exhibit more aggressive bite and overtly piney, resiny characteristics; Green Flash West Coast
IPA, Stone Arrogant Bastard, and Avery Dugana are great examples.
Get hopping and we’ll see you next time.
Cheers!
Your Beermonger: What Is Beer? by Nick Anderson
It’s a fair question: What exactly is beer? Strictly speaking, the conversion of starch to sugar to alcohol constitutes beer. But sake isn’t beer (though technically it could be considered such); so what is it? Well, beer is the third most popular beverage in the world after water and tea and has been such for hundreds if not thousands of years. In modern terms, beer is the fermentation of the basic cereal grains (malted barley, oats, and wheat) with the addition of hops as a natural preservative and for the purposes of adding bitterness to the brew. Everything else in beer is under the discretion of the brewer, and this is where beer gets interesting. For a nerd like me, beer isn’t just a beverage; beer is history.
When water was untrustworthy, there was beer. Where an army stood victorious, it’s beer at the very least shared credit for its victory. Agriculture, religion, enlightenment; where major shifts in thought or power have gone over the centuries, beer has followed or led the way. There are a great many misconceptions about beer these days; what with the rise of microbreweries and the idea of artisan beer as some sort of luxury or oddity. The basics of beer however are enduring and absurdly simple.
1. The heart of beer is a blend of grain, yeast, water and hops. There are some more esoteric styles that don’t necessitate hops, but for all intents and purposes, we can go by these simple ingredients as the base of what beer is. The Germans have run with this basic allowance since the 16th century and to this day, the German Reinheitsgebot, the beer purity law, has only allowed for variations within this strict set of ingredients.
2. Beer is, and shall always be, a beverage of the people. Beer production dates back far beyond that of wine or spirit, and played a great role in humans becoming an agricultural society. Look at any civilization, and you’ll find some form of what we call beer among them, and not in an abstract sense, either. The production of beer requires time, materials, and the farming those materials demand; where there is an organization of peoples, there is a beer that they drank as a regular part of their diet.
From there, discussion of beer and its principles tends to devolve, unfortunately. What is certain is the many styles of beer developed over time and the advancements made by bold visionary brewers who dare to see beyond tradition while simultaneously harkening to it. The trick for those new to craft beer is to not be defensive; to understand that there are style and brews that won’t be for them, or that they may not have the experience to fully appreciate. For those entering the world of craft beer, keep this in mind: The beer you’ll be trying will be fuller in flavor and body than what you’re used to. Start by asking your neighborhood provisioner for recommendations for beers that aren’t too intense and representative of their style. Take note of what it is you enjoy or don’t in each beer, and go from there.
In the coming weeks, we’ll be taking a look at various styles of beer, how they came to be and where they’re going. In the meantime, here’s a list of beers that I feel showcase various styles well and are approachable by the craft beer newcomer and devotee alike:
Lager: Weihenstephaner Original; Bell’s Lager Of The Lakes; Victory Prima Pils; Jever Pils; Lagunitas Czech Pils.
Pale Ale: Bell’s Pale Ale; Port City Pale Ale; Victory Headwaters Pale; Schlafly American Pale Ale; St. Peter’s Organic English Pale Ale.
India Pale Ale: Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA; Port City Monumental IPA; Heavy Seas Loose Cannon; Bell’s Two Hearted Ale; Founder’s Centennial IPA.
Porter: Port City Porter; Samuel Smith’s Taddy Porter; Founder’s Porter; Troeg’s Dead Reckoning.
Stout: Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout; Oskar Blues Ten Fidy; Founder’s Breakfast Stout; Dogfish Head Worldwide Stout; Sixpoint Diesel.
Amber: Bell’s Amber; New Belgium Fat Tire; Troeg’s Hopback Amber; Troeg’s Nugget Nectar.
Hefeweizen: Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen; Schneider Weisse; Lagunitas Doppel Weizen.
Belgian Ales: Ommegang Witte; Port City Optimal Wit; Westmalle Tripel; Gouden Carolus Classic, Tripel; Rochefort 6, 8, and 10; Duvel; Orval; Delirium Tremens; Tilquin Gueuze; Duchess de Bourgogne; Scotch de Silly.
This should get you started down the path to beervana. Remember that no matter what anyone tries to tell you — it’s just beer. There’s no need to feel like you have to like something; either you do or you don’t. There are enough styles and beers to go around; never allow yourself to be told what you enjoy.
Cheers!
When water was untrustworthy, there was beer. Where an army stood victorious, it’s beer at the very least shared credit for its victory. Agriculture, religion, enlightenment; where major shifts in thought or power have gone over the centuries, beer has followed or led the way. There are a great many misconceptions about beer these days; what with the rise of microbreweries and the idea of artisan beer as some sort of luxury or oddity. The basics of beer however are enduring and absurdly simple.
1. The heart of beer is a blend of grain, yeast, water and hops. There are some more esoteric styles that don’t necessitate hops, but for all intents and purposes, we can go by these simple ingredients as the base of what beer is. The Germans have run with this basic allowance since the 16th century and to this day, the German Reinheitsgebot, the beer purity law, has only allowed for variations within this strict set of ingredients.
2. Beer is, and shall always be, a beverage of the people. Beer production dates back far beyond that of wine or spirit, and played a great role in humans becoming an agricultural society. Look at any civilization, and you’ll find some form of what we call beer among them, and not in an abstract sense, either. The production of beer requires time, materials, and the farming those materials demand; where there is an organization of peoples, there is a beer that they drank as a regular part of their diet.
From there, discussion of beer and its principles tends to devolve, unfortunately. What is certain is the many styles of beer developed over time and the advancements made by bold visionary brewers who dare to see beyond tradition while simultaneously harkening to it. The trick for those new to craft beer is to not be defensive; to understand that there are style and brews that won’t be for them, or that they may not have the experience to fully appreciate. For those entering the world of craft beer, keep this in mind: The beer you’ll be trying will be fuller in flavor and body than what you’re used to. Start by asking your neighborhood provisioner for recommendations for beers that aren’t too intense and representative of their style. Take note of what it is you enjoy or don’t in each beer, and go from there.
In the coming weeks, we’ll be taking a look at various styles of beer, how they came to be and where they’re going. In the meantime, here’s a list of beers that I feel showcase various styles well and are approachable by the craft beer newcomer and devotee alike:
Lager: Weihenstephaner Original; Bell’s Lager Of The Lakes; Victory Prima Pils; Jever Pils; Lagunitas Czech Pils.
Pale Ale: Bell’s Pale Ale; Port City Pale Ale; Victory Headwaters Pale; Schlafly American Pale Ale; St. Peter’s Organic English Pale Ale.
India Pale Ale: Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA; Port City Monumental IPA; Heavy Seas Loose Cannon; Bell’s Two Hearted Ale; Founder’s Centennial IPA.
Porter: Port City Porter; Samuel Smith’s Taddy Porter; Founder’s Porter; Troeg’s Dead Reckoning.
Stout: Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout; Oskar Blues Ten Fidy; Founder’s Breakfast Stout; Dogfish Head Worldwide Stout; Sixpoint Diesel.
Amber: Bell’s Amber; New Belgium Fat Tire; Troeg’s Hopback Amber; Troeg’s Nugget Nectar.
Hefeweizen: Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen; Schneider Weisse; Lagunitas Doppel Weizen.
Belgian Ales: Ommegang Witte; Port City Optimal Wit; Westmalle Tripel; Gouden Carolus Classic, Tripel; Rochefort 6, 8, and 10; Duvel; Orval; Delirium Tremens; Tilquin Gueuze; Duchess de Bourgogne; Scotch de Silly.
This should get you started down the path to beervana. Remember that no matter what anyone tries to tell you — it’s just beer. There’s no need to feel like you have to like something; either you do or you don’t. There are enough styles and beers to go around; never allow yourself to be told what you enjoy.
Cheers!
Gifts for the Wine Lover by Doug Rosen
When searching for the perfect gift for the wine lover, we should really start at the most obvious: a truly special bottle of wine. If your recipient likes wines of a particular variety, like California cabernet, you might look for a special bottle from a hard-to-find producer. Or ask your wine merchant to help you select a wine from a different place or made from a different grape that has a similar flavor profile to your recipient’s favorite.
Perhaps you can find an older bottle that has been properly cared for and squirreled away. Fine wine merchants often hold some stocks of highly rated selections and offer them for sale at the peak of drinkability, giving a client an opportunity to experience what a well-aged, well cared for wine tastes like. The bottles’ bouquet, palate feel and complexity can only develop over time and no amount of decanting can yield the same results.
Port makes a great gift as there are so many delicious options and in most cases, the consumer can enjoy a well-aged wine immediately.
You can’t go wrong with an aged Tawny Port. It’s hard to beat a glass of Port on a cold evening in front of a fire. The most popular Tawny Ports are 10-year-old and 20-year-old, but you can also find 30 and 40-year-old examples. The number of years designated on the bottle represents the average age of the blend from several vats of various years. Tawny Ports are aged in large wood vats and as they age they slowly oxidize and mellow, losing color and sweetness while gaining nuttiness. Since they are aged in wood for extended periods of time, they don’t need decanting and can be enjoyed to the last drop. Another beauty of Tawny Port is once open they can be enjoyed for months — just keep them in the refrigerator.
Ports represent great value, given that the grower has held the wine in his cellar and aged it for you. Tawny’s are best served cool, which helps moderate the higher alcohol level. They are a gift that keeps on giving.
Vintage Ports are the King of Port Wines. They represent the best wines that a producer can make, encompassing only about two percent of the producer’s total production. They are produced on average only three times in a decade. Vintage Ports are made from the grapes of the finest parcels of land, from usually the oldest vines, the finest farms, and from a single harvest. To this day many houses still tread the grapes under foot in shallow concrete vats. Law dictates they must be bottled unfiltered after only two years in barrel. They are then offered for sale, letting the consumer age them in his cellar. They often need 30 to 40 years to reach their full potential. A good fine wine shop will stock Vintage Ports dating back to the seventies and offer mature wines for sale.
Vintage Ports are truly a grand experience, requiring some forethought as the bottle must stand upright for several days to let the sediment slowly drift to the bottom. Even with three days in an upright position, you will want to decant the wine using a funnel and screen (widely available), rinse out the original bottle to remove the remaining sediment, and then return the decanted wine to the original bottle. After that, you are ready to serve it. Unlike Tawny Ports, Vintage Ports are best consumed within a day or so after opening.
Enjoying vintage port may seem like a lot of work, but I promise you it’s well worth it. Match this grandest of wines with Colston Bassett Stilton, slices of pear, and nuts and you are in for one of the most revered wine and food pairings in the world.
Try it you’ll love it!
Perhaps you can find an older bottle that has been properly cared for and squirreled away. Fine wine merchants often hold some stocks of highly rated selections and offer them for sale at the peak of drinkability, giving a client an opportunity to experience what a well-aged, well cared for wine tastes like. The bottles’ bouquet, palate feel and complexity can only develop over time and no amount of decanting can yield the same results.
Port makes a great gift as there are so many delicious options and in most cases, the consumer can enjoy a well-aged wine immediately.
You can’t go wrong with an aged Tawny Port. It’s hard to beat a glass of Port on a cold evening in front of a fire. The most popular Tawny Ports are 10-year-old and 20-year-old, but you can also find 30 and 40-year-old examples. The number of years designated on the bottle represents the average age of the blend from several vats of various years. Tawny Ports are aged in large wood vats and as they age they slowly oxidize and mellow, losing color and sweetness while gaining nuttiness. Since they are aged in wood for extended periods of time, they don’t need decanting and can be enjoyed to the last drop. Another beauty of Tawny Port is once open they can be enjoyed for months — just keep them in the refrigerator.
Ports represent great value, given that the grower has held the wine in his cellar and aged it for you. Tawny’s are best served cool, which helps moderate the higher alcohol level. They are a gift that keeps on giving.
Vintage Ports are the King of Port Wines. They represent the best wines that a producer can make, encompassing only about two percent of the producer’s total production. They are produced on average only three times in a decade. Vintage Ports are made from the grapes of the finest parcels of land, from usually the oldest vines, the finest farms, and from a single harvest. To this day many houses still tread the grapes under foot in shallow concrete vats. Law dictates they must be bottled unfiltered after only two years in barrel. They are then offered for sale, letting the consumer age them in his cellar. They often need 30 to 40 years to reach their full potential. A good fine wine shop will stock Vintage Ports dating back to the seventies and offer mature wines for sale.
Vintage Ports are truly a grand experience, requiring some forethought as the bottle must stand upright for several days to let the sediment slowly drift to the bottom. Even with three days in an upright position, you will want to decant the wine using a funnel and screen (widely available), rinse out the original bottle to remove the remaining sediment, and then return the decanted wine to the original bottle. After that, you are ready to serve it. Unlike Tawny Ports, Vintage Ports are best consumed within a day or so after opening.
Enjoying vintage port may seem like a lot of work, but I promise you it’s well worth it. Match this grandest of wines with Colston Bassett Stilton, slices of pear, and nuts and you are in for one of the most revered wine and food pairings in the world.
Try it you’ll love it!
Friday, December 9, 2011
How to Taste Wine Like the Pros by Doug Rosen
Okay, there’s no way around it; it takes years of training and experience to taste wine like a pro. However, there are a few things you can learn to be better equipped to analyze and enjoy the wine in your glass.
The first thing is to start out with a clean glass. That would seem obvious but it isn’t. By clean I mean NEVER use a glass straight from your cabinet without first rinsing it with water. All cabinets impart aromas to glasses in a matter of minutes. These aromas taint the wine instantly. Not to mention that many soaps and dishwasher detergents leave noticeable aromatic residues. This is the single most prevalent mistake made.
There are some out there in the wine world who think that rinsing a glass with wine is enough to season a glass but they are wrong. Detergents and their residues are formulated to dissolve in water, not wine, and wine doesn’t get rid of cabinet smells either. Tap water is fine to rinse a glass; if you can then use a little wine in the rinsed glass to remove the water residue and season the glass, even better.
Now how to taste. Start off by selecting a glass that’s generous (at least 8 oz); this gives you enough surface area to swirl the wine and expose it to oxygen without spilling it all over yourself.
Color:
Pour about 1 to 2 ounces in the glass. Use a sheet of white paper, holding it behind the glass to try to get a real sense of the wines’ clarity and color.
Is the wine clear or cloudy? Wine in the glass should always be clear and translucent.
Tilt the glass and observe the color to the rim. Is it consistent or does the color or hue taper off. Young wines have less color variation. Oak aging also fixes color in both reds and whites. The more new wood the deeper the color. Older red wines can take on a brickish tone, while whites become golden.
Not all wines are deeply colored. Malbec, cabernet and merlot-based wines are blue to purple, while pinot noirs, gamays, nebbiolo and sangiovese-based wines have less color naturally and are more red in appearance.
The Nose:
To get started, swirl the wine in the glass to release the aromas. Tilt the glass and really get your nose in there. This is perhaps the most complicated part of the process. The nose tells you many things.
The aroma of the wine should be identifiable as coming from a particular grape variety, for example plums for merlot or lime for sauvignon blanc. The nose also tells you if a wine has been aged in oak and if so what kind of oak was used: spice/vanilla aromas from French oak or coconut aromas from American oak. Keep in mind that the aromatics contributed from the oak aging should never dominate the aromatic profile.
The nose is also the first place to pick up defects in a wine such as:
Tasting the wine:
Take a sip large enough to cover your palate and hold it in your mouth, yet open your lips and inhale slightly to oxygenate the wine. Is the wine dry or sweet? Smooth or coarse? Notice the weight of the wine, what we call the body. Is the wine thin/watery or thick/oily? Are the acids in balance? Is the wine refreshing to drink or fatiguing? Are the flavors complex or simple? After spitting the wine out (yes, you have to spit if you’re tasting), do the flavors of the wine stay with you or do they evaporate immediately? Are all the flavors in balance or as I like to say, is the wine a circle with nothing protruding? What flavors come to mind? Get creative!
Throw a party:
The best way to learn about wine is to taste several wines at a time. The most educational approach is to (for example) try several chardonnays from Burgundy; better yet from one a village like Chasssagne Montrachet but from different vineyards in the village. Or chardonnays from around the world: one from California, France, Australia and South Africa etc. That’s fun and educational. Invite some friends and pull some corks!
The first thing is to start out with a clean glass. That would seem obvious but it isn’t. By clean I mean NEVER use a glass straight from your cabinet without first rinsing it with water. All cabinets impart aromas to glasses in a matter of minutes. These aromas taint the wine instantly. Not to mention that many soaps and dishwasher detergents leave noticeable aromatic residues. This is the single most prevalent mistake made.
There are some out there in the wine world who think that rinsing a glass with wine is enough to season a glass but they are wrong. Detergents and their residues are formulated to dissolve in water, not wine, and wine doesn’t get rid of cabinet smells either. Tap water is fine to rinse a glass; if you can then use a little wine in the rinsed glass to remove the water residue and season the glass, even better.
Now how to taste. Start off by selecting a glass that’s generous (at least 8 oz); this gives you enough surface area to swirl the wine and expose it to oxygen without spilling it all over yourself.
Color:
Pour about 1 to 2 ounces in the glass. Use a sheet of white paper, holding it behind the glass to try to get a real sense of the wines’ clarity and color.
Is the wine clear or cloudy? Wine in the glass should always be clear and translucent.
Tilt the glass and observe the color to the rim. Is it consistent or does the color or hue taper off. Young wines have less color variation. Oak aging also fixes color in both reds and whites. The more new wood the deeper the color. Older red wines can take on a brickish tone, while whites become golden.
Not all wines are deeply colored. Malbec, cabernet and merlot-based wines are blue to purple, while pinot noirs, gamays, nebbiolo and sangiovese-based wines have less color naturally and are more red in appearance.
The Nose:
To get started, swirl the wine in the glass to release the aromas. Tilt the glass and really get your nose in there. This is perhaps the most complicated part of the process. The nose tells you many things.
The aroma of the wine should be identifiable as coming from a particular grape variety, for example plums for merlot or lime for sauvignon blanc. The nose also tells you if a wine has been aged in oak and if so what kind of oak was used: spice/vanilla aromas from French oak or coconut aromas from American oak. Keep in mind that the aromatics contributed from the oak aging should never dominate the aromatic profile.
The nose is also the first place to pick up defects in a wine such as:
- Cork taint, which imparts an earthy, cardboard-like smell, akin to a wet basement
- Volatile acidity, or a vinegar smell
- Excess sulphur, like a burned match
- Oxidation, or a sherry-like aroma
- Mercaptan, smells like skunk
- Brettanomyces, which has many unpleasant variations such as barnyard, leather, mouse or band-aid like smells.
Tasting the wine:
Take a sip large enough to cover your palate and hold it in your mouth, yet open your lips and inhale slightly to oxygenate the wine. Is the wine dry or sweet? Smooth or coarse? Notice the weight of the wine, what we call the body. Is the wine thin/watery or thick/oily? Are the acids in balance? Is the wine refreshing to drink or fatiguing? Are the flavors complex or simple? After spitting the wine out (yes, you have to spit if you’re tasting), do the flavors of the wine stay with you or do they evaporate immediately? Are all the flavors in balance or as I like to say, is the wine a circle with nothing protruding? What flavors come to mind? Get creative!
Throw a party:
The best way to learn about wine is to taste several wines at a time. The most educational approach is to (for example) try several chardonnays from Burgundy; better yet from one a village like Chasssagne Montrachet but from different vineyards in the village. Or chardonnays from around the world: one from California, France, Australia and South Africa etc. That’s fun and educational. Invite some friends and pull some corks!
Friday, December 2, 2011
Your Wine Guy: Understanding Terroir by Doug Rosen
Why drink wine? If liquor is quicker and beer cheaper, what makes us go to such lengths to understand, collect and treasure wine?
The answer is simple: no other beverage — alcoholic or not — has the ability to convey the unique flavors of its birthplace. Wine and wine alone, when deftly made, speaks of the flavors of a unique plot, climate, and growing season.
Have you ever wondered why an Oregon pinot noir doesn’t taste like a Burgundy? Or why a Bordeaux doesn’t taste like a California cabernet or a Cahors like an Argentine Malbec? Terroir is the first place to look. It’s the expression of a unique signature, of an address that can’t be duplicated; the elusive specificity, driven by the confluence of grapes, soil, and sun. It’s the notion that only fermented grape juice has the ability to sign its own birth certificate.
Even identical grapes planted yards apart can yield different flavors. The undulating hills of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or (golden slope) are the world’s most famous example. Wine enthusiasts can spend lifetimes trying to understand and master the subtleties and nuances of each of the hundreds of parcels. Each of these parcels can have a slightly different soil structure due to its location on the slope, sun exposure and drainage, creates thousands of unique microclimates that affect everything from taste, to aromas, to longevity.
How to explore the notion of terroir? Taste, taste and taste some more, but don’t just taste one bottle at a time. Taste with a purpose. Select at least four different wines of the same varietal (e.g. cabernet, pinot noir or chardonnay) and taste them at one time (a great party theme), noting the differences in color, aromas, texture, flavors and finish. All four can be from the same viticulture area (e.g. Napa Valley, Willamette Valley or Burgundy) or you can choose to tour the world, and select one from each area (e.g. pinot noir from California, Oregon, Burgundy and New Zealand). For an even more challenging tasting, select four from the same village and note the differences that can be found within an area of only a few square miles (e.g. Chambolle Musigny in Burgundy).
Have fun, but pay attention to your preferences. Was it the aromas, mouth-feel or flavors that you especially liked? Try to dissect exactly what about those components drew you in. Armed with that information, your local fine wine merchant can serve you better on your next visit.
Shopping List
Sauvignon Blanc From Around the World
2009 Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $13.99
2010 Domaine Joel Delaunay Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine, France $14.99
2010 Yorkville Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino, California $17.99
2010 Colutta, Colli Orientali Del Friuli, Italy $19.99
Pinot Noir From Around the World
2010 Over The Edge, Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand $15.99
2010 Grochau Cellars Commuter Cuvee, Willamette Valley, Oregon $19.99
2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot Bourgogne – $21.99 $21.99
2009 Banshee Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California $25.99
Wines Within One Area – 2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Les Tillets” $49.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru $75.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Genevrières 1er Cru $79.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault Perrières 1er Cru $82.99
The answer is simple: no other beverage — alcoholic or not — has the ability to convey the unique flavors of its birthplace. Wine and wine alone, when deftly made, speaks of the flavors of a unique plot, climate, and growing season.
Have you ever wondered why an Oregon pinot noir doesn’t taste like a Burgundy? Or why a Bordeaux doesn’t taste like a California cabernet or a Cahors like an Argentine Malbec? Terroir is the first place to look. It’s the expression of a unique signature, of an address that can’t be duplicated; the elusive specificity, driven by the confluence of grapes, soil, and sun. It’s the notion that only fermented grape juice has the ability to sign its own birth certificate.
Even identical grapes planted yards apart can yield different flavors. The undulating hills of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or (golden slope) are the world’s most famous example. Wine enthusiasts can spend lifetimes trying to understand and master the subtleties and nuances of each of the hundreds of parcels. Each of these parcels can have a slightly different soil structure due to its location on the slope, sun exposure and drainage, creates thousands of unique microclimates that affect everything from taste, to aromas, to longevity.
How to explore the notion of terroir? Taste, taste and taste some more, but don’t just taste one bottle at a time. Taste with a purpose. Select at least four different wines of the same varietal (e.g. cabernet, pinot noir or chardonnay) and taste them at one time (a great party theme), noting the differences in color, aromas, texture, flavors and finish. All four can be from the same viticulture area (e.g. Napa Valley, Willamette Valley or Burgundy) or you can choose to tour the world, and select one from each area (e.g. pinot noir from California, Oregon, Burgundy and New Zealand). For an even more challenging tasting, select four from the same village and note the differences that can be found within an area of only a few square miles (e.g. Chambolle Musigny in Burgundy).
Have fun, but pay attention to your preferences. Was it the aromas, mouth-feel or flavors that you especially liked? Try to dissect exactly what about those components drew you in. Armed with that information, your local fine wine merchant can serve you better on your next visit.
Shopping List
Sauvignon Blanc From Around the World
2009 Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $13.99
2010 Domaine Joel Delaunay Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine, France $14.99
2010 Yorkville Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino, California $17.99
2010 Colutta, Colli Orientali Del Friuli, Italy $19.99
Pinot Noir From Around the World
2010 Over The Edge, Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand $15.99
2010 Grochau Cellars Commuter Cuvee, Willamette Valley, Oregon $19.99
2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot Bourgogne – $21.99 $21.99
2009 Banshee Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California $25.99
Wines Within One Area – 2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Les Tillets” $49.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru $75.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Genevrières 1er Cru $79.99
2009 Boyer-Martenot Meursault Perrières 1er Cru $82.99
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Picking The Right Thanksgiving Wine by Doug Rosen
Every year around late November, the phrase “Okay, you bring the wine for Thanksgiving” strikes fear into the hearts of millions of Americans. Thanksgiving dinner is the culinary equivalent to Dante’s Inferno and poses a distinct pairing challenge.
Why is Thanksgiving dinner so difficult? Well, let’s face it — turkey is pretty bland. We brine it, marinate it, stuff it, spice it, and perhaps even deep-fry it. Then we throw the entire kitchen pantry at it in an effort to add some flavor to the Thanksgiving meal.
To further complicate the Thanksgiving conundrum, the meal can be completely different in every home. It’s not easy to try to find the right wine for the hodgepodge that is each of our Thanksgiving dinners. Like a favorite pair of jeans, each of us has familiar and comfortable “traditional family” dishes, without which Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be the same.
From my experience, most Thanksgiving meals are distinctively sweet. Adding sweetness in any form — cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, marshmallows — changes the wine equation.
So here’s the vinous equivalent of a “Get Out Of Jail Free” card: If anything, and I mean anything, on your Thanksgiving table is sweet then you can’t serve a bone-dry wine. It doesn’t matter whether it’s red or white, if there’s anything sweet on the plate, a bone-dry wine will clash with the food.
A great wine selection would be a fruit-focused or fruit-forward California or Oregon pinot noir that is not oaky, like the 2010 Angeline (California) or 2009 Artisanal (Oregon). If you want a little wood, try a California zinfandel like the 2009 Quivira, which has lots of fruit.
If your Thanksgiving dinner is truly savory, then I would opt for a delicious glass of food-friendly Beaujolais like 2009 Chateau Prety, or Red Burgundy (Bourgogne) like 2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot. Another delicious French pinot noir is the 2009 Grosbot-Barbara Chambre d’Edouard from the Loire Valley. Overall 2009 was an outstanding vintage throughout France.
Be sure to stay away from reds with aggressive grape tannins such as young red Bordeaux, Argentine malbecs or most California cabernets. The tannins make turkey taste metallic.
While many people prefer red wine with turkey, I prefer white, such as a pinot gris from Oregon like 2010 Willow Crest, pinot blanc from Alsace like 2010 Fritsch, or a slightly off dry Mosel Kabinett from Germany like 2009 Ehlen Erderner Treppchen.
With the weather turning cooler, a bottle of 10-year-old Tawny Port as a gift for your host is a great idea. Nothing is more welcomed as the autumn nights turn cooler than a small glass of port and it keeps in the refrigerator for months.
And don’t forget to bring Champagne or your favorite sparkling wine to drink while cooking or watching Thanksgiving football. A glass or two of bubbly will keep the cook and guests happy.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Shopping list:
Reds
Why is Thanksgiving dinner so difficult? Well, let’s face it — turkey is pretty bland. We brine it, marinate it, stuff it, spice it, and perhaps even deep-fry it. Then we throw the entire kitchen pantry at it in an effort to add some flavor to the Thanksgiving meal.
To further complicate the Thanksgiving conundrum, the meal can be completely different in every home. It’s not easy to try to find the right wine for the hodgepodge that is each of our Thanksgiving dinners. Like a favorite pair of jeans, each of us has familiar and comfortable “traditional family” dishes, without which Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be the same.
From my experience, most Thanksgiving meals are distinctively sweet. Adding sweetness in any form — cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, marshmallows — changes the wine equation.
So here’s the vinous equivalent of a “Get Out Of Jail Free” card: If anything, and I mean anything, on your Thanksgiving table is sweet then you can’t serve a bone-dry wine. It doesn’t matter whether it’s red or white, if there’s anything sweet on the plate, a bone-dry wine will clash with the food.
A great wine selection would be a fruit-focused or fruit-forward California or Oregon pinot noir that is not oaky, like the 2010 Angeline (California) or 2009 Artisanal (Oregon). If you want a little wood, try a California zinfandel like the 2009 Quivira, which has lots of fruit.
If your Thanksgiving dinner is truly savory, then I would opt for a delicious glass of food-friendly Beaujolais like 2009 Chateau Prety, or Red Burgundy (Bourgogne) like 2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot. Another delicious French pinot noir is the 2009 Grosbot-Barbara Chambre d’Edouard from the Loire Valley. Overall 2009 was an outstanding vintage throughout France.
Be sure to stay away from reds with aggressive grape tannins such as young red Bordeaux, Argentine malbecs or most California cabernets. The tannins make turkey taste metallic.
While many people prefer red wine with turkey, I prefer white, such as a pinot gris from Oregon like 2010 Willow Crest, pinot blanc from Alsace like 2010 Fritsch, or a slightly off dry Mosel Kabinett from Germany like 2009 Ehlen Erderner Treppchen.
With the weather turning cooler, a bottle of 10-year-old Tawny Port as a gift for your host is a great idea. Nothing is more welcomed as the autumn nights turn cooler than a small glass of port and it keeps in the refrigerator for months.
And don’t forget to bring Champagne or your favorite sparkling wine to drink while cooking or watching Thanksgiving football. A glass or two of bubbly will keep the cook and guests happy.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Shopping list:
Reds
- 2010 Angeline Pinot Noir – $12.99
- 2009 Chateau Prety Beaujolais Villages – $14.99
- 2009 Sean Minor Four Bears Pinot Noir – $16.99
- 2009 Grosbot-Barbara Chambre d’Edouard – $16.99
- 2009 Quivira Zinfandel – $19.99
- 2009 Jean Michel et Laurent Pillot Bourgogne – $21.99
- 2009 Artisanal Pinot Noir – $24.99
- 2008 Baileyana Pinot Noir – $25.99
- 2010 Willow Crest Pinot Gris – $14.99
- 2009 Cave Spring Riesling – $14.99
- 2010 Fritsch Pinot Blanc – $14.99
- 2009 Ehlen Erderner Treppchen Kabinett – $15.99
- 2009 Domaine Larredya Jurançon Sec – $19.99
- Dumont NV – $35.99
- Jose Michel Tradition NV – $38.99
- Jean Vesselle Reserve – $44.99
- Burmester Jockey Club Reserve – $25.99
- Quinta de La Rosa 10 Year – $29.99
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