From Arlington to The Alps!

Katie Carter Journeys to Switzerland

When I became a cheesemonger in 2004, I took it upon myself to learn everything I could from other serious cheese professionals and organizations. My education took me to New York every week for a "Master Cheese Class" at the Artisanal Cheese Center in Manhattan. It was during these classes that I discovered the work of Swiss Affineur, Rolf Beeler. Rolf Beeler does not make cheese, he selects cheese from only the best producers around Switzerland and carefully ages them to perfection in his caves. Beeler then puts his own label on the cheese and sells them throughout the world.

Like most other people, the extent of my knowledge of Swiss Cheese prior to being a cheesemonger was limited to mediocre Gruyere, Appenzeller, and really bad Emmenthaler knockoffs. It was because of Beeler's work that I fell in love with the cheeses of Switzerland.

Swiss Affineur (cheese ager), Rolf Beeler

Arrowine introduced as many Beeler and other great Swiss cheeses as I could to our cheese-loving customers. We all marveled at the diversity of flavors and textures, as well as the fine craftsmanship of traditional Swiss cheesemakers. I was so impressed with the new Swiss Cheeses, that when we began selling "Forsterkase", I declared it to be "life-changing" on its sign. Yes, this cheesemonger got a lot of laughs and funny looks for that one.

Turns out, that cheese IS changing my life.  In January, I attended a tasting in Manhattan to meet the creator of that cheese, Willi Schmid. Beyond tasting almost his entire collection of cheese creations (over 24), I became completely inspired by his work, his stories, his dedication to the craft. It was clear this man was at the forefront of a new movement of cheesemaking. I decided then that I had to learn more from him and that going to his tiny village in Switzerland was the best way to accomplish that.

Willi Schmid

Today, I will be traveling to Lichtensteig, Switzerland to work with Willi at his creamery in order to know as much as possible about him, his cheese, and his unique methods. In addition to working in the creamery, I will be traveling throughout Switzerland visiting other cheesemakers, farmers, and affineurs to learn the details of the country's cheese culture. Expect many pictures, stories, tastings, and lots of fascinating details. Follow my journey on this blog, Arrowine's Facebook page, and via twitter.

Wish me good luck, people! Did I mention I can't speak German...?
~Katie Carter

The 2011 Cheesemonger Invitational!

Arrowine's Cheese Department Manager, Perry Soulos, will be competing in the 2nd annual Cheesemonger Invitational this July in New York!! The Cheesemonger Invitational is the biggest gathering of the year for cheese professionals. Fromagers, cheesemongers, and other cheese lovers convene at the Larkin cheese warehouse to celebrate cheese and the professionals who support the craft.

So, what do cheesemongers do when they get together? Eat cheese, show off their crazy mongering skills, and party, of course!  The mind-blowing cheese inspired dishes of Chef Tia Keenan, will be served; the thoughtful and creative fare is sure to inspire the visiting mongers to rethink the typical cheese board. Also, cheese-slinging DJ's will rock the warehouse all night. Thankfully, I doubt the music will be cheese-inspired.

The night's biggest event, though, will be a competition between the country's top mongers.  $10,000 in cash prizes will be awarded to the top ten. Wrapping, cutting, displaying, and selling skills will be put to the test in what Larkin describes as, "Iron chef meets American Idol meets Dancing with the Stars FOR CHEESE". Don't you wish you were a cheesemonger?!

We'll keep you updated and let you know how we rank. Wish us good luck!

Willi Schmid's Millstone

In a land united by wonderful dairy products, cheesemaker Willi Schmid represents the new school of Swiss cheese. Schmid is a true innovator and creates over two dozen cheeses that most wouldn't associate with the grand mountain cheeses of Switzerland. Though making cheese is a relatively new venture for Schmid, his creations have already been recognized as some of the very best in all of Switzerland. Swiss affineur (professional cheese ager) Rolf Beeler said of Schmid, "No other cheesemaker in our country is as talented, as curious and as innovative as Willi".

He creates cheese on a tiny scale in his small creamery in Lichtensteig, about an hour east of Zurich. Each day he personally collects goat, cow, sheep, or water buffalo's milk from his farmers. He only decides what cheese to make after tasting the milk. This is practically unheard of, as most cheesemakers adhere to a rigid cheesemaking schedule and market demands. Not Willi. His artistic nature, the milk characteristics, and the seasons determine which cheese is made. Schmid fervently defends the tradition of using pure, raw milk as he (and most cheesemakers) believe the best cheese is made with unadulterated, raw milk. It is a fundamental notion that flavors of the land shine through if milk is absolutely pure and made into cheese very soon after the animals are milked.

Among his many cheeses is Millstone, a large cheese made into a shape of a wheel (or a millstone), with a hole in the middle. Made from raw Jersey cow's milk, the yellowish paste is semi soft in texture and riddled with many, small "mechanical" holes. The gray rind grows naturally during the cheese's six to ten week ripening period in Schmid's aging rooms. The aroma of the rind is musty but delicate, while the paste has a sweet milky aroma. It does have a cow smell, not to be confused with a farm smell. There are no funky, unclean aromas of a rustic barn. The flavors are clean, rich, and the taste of the pastures that the cows graze on shine through. It also offers a well-balanced acidity which rounds out the cheese.

Millstone differs from the typical Alpine cheeses that Arrowine sells. It is relatively young and does not offer the very deep, complex nutty flavors of say, Hoch Ybrig or Gruyere. This can be a welcome change, as Millstone can be eaten casually everyday on it's own and in cooking.

Though we have developed a strong relationship with Willi Schmid and Caroline Hostettler, the fantastic importer who discovered Willi, we have found it difficult to keep a steady supply of his cheese in stock. Around the world, demand for his creations is huge. Schmid only releases his cheese when he deems them perfect, which we all respect, but sometimes the timing is not in our favor. Be sure to ask the mongers at Arrowine if we have any of his cheeses, they are all beautiful and deserve your attention. At this time, we have about half a wheel left of Millstone. Stop in soon for a taste, this exceptional cheese won't last long.



~Katie Carter, cheesemonger

Catherine Faller of Domaine Weinbach stops by Arrowine!

Today, we were lucky enough to be visited by Catherine Faller, proprietor of Domaine Weinbach in Alsace, France. She briefly talks to Doug about the '08 and '09 vintages and her switch to Biodynamic practices.

Welcome to the Arrowine Blog!

We are adding a blog to our list of ways to passing on our passion and knowledge for all things wine, craft beer, artisanal cheese, and charcuterie. Our wonderful cheesemongers and wine staff will be contributing to this blog. Feel free to comment and give suggestions on specific topics you would like to hear about. Thanks for the support, cheers!